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Thread: DCT Issue

  1. #1
    Senior Member DCT Issue telecam's Avatar
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    DCT Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by smiller View Post
    Not sure if this has been covered before but just in case...

    I noticed that my 2013 NC700XD had developed a slight tendency to want to creep forward at stoplights, not enough to really be a problem but slightly annoying sometimes. I noticed that in the service manual there is a clutch learning mode/calibration routine that can be activated without the official programming box, using only the handlebar switchgear (yay Honda.) After performing the calibration, bingo... auto clutch was working perfectly again, no creep at all.


    The procedure is as follows:

    1. Fully warm the engine to normal operating temperature.

    2. Make sure that the stop/run switch is in the 'run' position and then turn on the ignition switch while holding down the 'D' shift switch on the right handlebar. Hold down the 'D' switch until the MIL (engine icon) goes off. You should see the outline of the the gear selector box on the LCD display but it should be empty (no D or S, no gear shown).

    3. Operate the shift selector switch as follows (one push for each): D-D-N-D-N . After this is done 'D' and 'S' should show in the gear indicator box, along with a '-' sign in the center flashing at approx. 2 second intervals. (If you see an 'L' in the display the engine is not warm enough, if so then shut off the ignition, start the bike and bring it up to normal operating temperature, shut it off, and start again at Step 2.)

    4. Start the engine and let it idle. Do not touch the throttle. The calibration is complete when the D and S indicators disappear. Shut off the engine and the calibration process is complete. (If the '-' starts blinking rapidly at 1/2 second intervals then the calibration process failed, shut of the ignition and repeat from Step 2.)


    I wouldn't advise messing with the calibration just for the hell of it, but if you are experiencing a minor running problem such as the one I described above it may help.
    So my 6,200 miles NC700X stopped shifting gear today.... I did try the calibration procedure described above, was able to ride for a few minutes but then it got stuck in 2 and later in 4 and then nothing, wouldn't shift to any gear and not even start. I am sure the battery is good, I have had a lithium for 3 months and it worked like clockwork. Had it towed to local Honda. I suspect solenoid or something in the clutch electricals is broken. BTW, on the steps above, before going to step 4, do you need to turn the ignition OFF and ON prior to start the engine?
    Last edited by telecam; 30th August 2018 at 17:49.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator DCT Issue 670cc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by telecam View Post
    So my 8,500 miles NC700X stopped shifting gear today.... I did try the calibration procedure described above, was able to ride for a few minutes but then it got stuck in 2 and later in 4 and then nothing, wouldn't shift to any gear and not even start. I am sure the battery is good, I have had a lithium for 3 months and it worked like clockwork. Had it towed to local Honda. I suspect solenoid or something in the clutch electricals is broken. BTW, on the steps above, before going to step 4, do you need to turn the ignition OFF and ON prior to start the engine?
    Please let us know the dealer’s diagnosis. It would be interesting if it’s another shifter pin failure, or some new problem we haven’t yet heard about.
    Greg
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  3. #3
    Senior Member DCT Issue telecam's Avatar
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    Will do. Hopefully, they are knowledgeable fixing DCT clutches...

  4. #4
    Senior Member DCT Issue dduelin's Avatar
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    What are the 'no-start' symptoms?

    A fairly new non-standard battery draws my attention.
    Dave

    GL1800
    NC700XD




  5. #5
    Senior Member DCT Issue telecam's Avatar
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    I really wish it is a bad battery but I sincerely doubt it is. When the issue first occurred, I had come to a stop light and the bike was in neutral with no gear displayed on the LCD, gear display was blank but everything displayed correctly. I switched the ignition off and back on a couple times, but the started button wouldn't work and the bike LCD showed that a gear was engaged (I think 3 or 4). I also tried to engage the gear by pressing the D and S button repetitively. Then, it eventually went in gear, worked for a miles or so. I stopped at an other traffic light and then, the gear displayed showed the bike was stuck in 3. I let it cool off for 30 minutes, tried to restart a couple times (after ignition was turned ON, I could hear some weird noise inside the engine, some elector mechanical clicking sounds. I tried to calibrate the clutch a couple times, bike started again, rode it for a mile and it got stuck again in third gear while ridding. I cam to a stop, and then bike got stuck in neutral (also N not display on the LCD), engine running fine, all electrical system fine (headlights, horn, etc...) but D/S mode button and UP and DOWN shifter buttons not responding. Then, I turn of off the engine, ignition off and back on. Gear display shows 3 is engage but started button doesn't respond. The lithium battery is 6 months hold, has been working flawlessly and as I can tell, still has plenty of juice. Pressing the horn with all lights on doesn't dim the light and the horn sounds clear and loud. I'll go to the dealership tomorrow and try to start it on a fresh battery but I am pessimistic. I feel something is wrong the DCT.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator DCT Issue 670cc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by telecam View Post
    I really wish it is a bad battery but I sincerely doubt it is. When the issue first occurred, I had come to a stop light and the bike was in neutral with no gear displayed on the LCD, gear display was blank but everything displayed correctly. I switched the ignition off and back on a couple times, but the started button wouldn't work and the bike LCD showed that a gear was engaged (I think 3 or 4). I also tried to engage the gear by pressing the D and S button repetitively. Then, it eventually went in gear, worked for a miles or so. I stopped at an other traffic light and then, the gear displayed showed the bike was stuck in 3. I let it cool off for 30 minutes, tried to restart a couple times (after ignition was turned ON, I could hear some weird noise inside the engine, some elector mechanical clicking sounds. I tried to calibrate the clutch a couple times, bike started again, rode it for a mile and it got stuck again in third gear while ridding. I cam to a stop, and then bike got stuck in neutral (also N not display on the LCD), engine running fine, all electrical system fine (headlights, horn, etc...) but D/S mode button and UP and DOWN shifter buttons not responding. Then, I turn of off the engine, ignition off and back on. Gear display shows 3 is engage but started button doesn't respond. The lithium battery is 6 months hold, has been working flawlessly and as I can tell, still has plenty of juice. Pressing the horn with all lights on doesn't dim the light and the horn sounds clear and loud. I'll go to the dealership tomorrow and try to start it on a fresh battery but I am pessimistic. I feel something is wrong the DCT.
    I’m not sure how all the symptoms line with a similar episode we had just a couple weeks ago, but it just might be the shifter pin issue again. If you haven’t read this thread yet, check it out: DCT Fault. Argh!. If the dealer turns up totally clueless, at least let them know about this potential issue.
    Last edited by 670cc; 13th July 2018 at 07:44. Reason: iPad duplicates words.
    Greg
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  7. #7
    Senior Member DCT Issue telecam's Avatar
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    I did read through that thread but in my case, not error message comes up on the LCD. The starter won't just work and the bike shows it's stuck in gear 3...

  8. #8
    Senior Member DCT Issue telecam's Avatar
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    And so I beg to ask... Is there any chance that a weak or faulty battery would make the DCT misbehave while riding? Isn't enough power provided by the alternator?

  9. #9
    Senior Member DCT Issue dduelin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by telecam View Post
    And so I beg to ask... Is there any chance that a weak or faulty battery would make the DCT misbehave while riding? Isn't enough power provided by the alternator?
    The DCT is dependent on a good clean source of 12V to operate properly. The alternator provides very little output at the low rpms where the NC700 lives and in particular the DCT shift points are around 2000 rpm where the alternator is probably not producing excess current to cope with both charging requirements and operating the shift drum motor/solenoids.

    An intermittent battery connection fault will cause intermittent shift failures as well as no-start failures. A low state of charge could do the same thing. I mentioned the recent introduction of a non-standard battery. If the bike is not ridden long enough at high enough rpms the battery has been in a state of discharge and the battery, while perhaps new and "good" has steadily lost ground.

    How long does the bike run each day or week and is there a battery tender or maintainer in use when the bike is not ridden?
    Dave

    GL1800
    NC700XD




  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dduelin View Post
    The DCT is dependent on a good clean source of 12V to operate properly. The alternator provides very little output at the low rpms where the NC700 lives and in particular the DCT shift points are around 2000 rpm where the alternator is probably not producing excess current to cope with both charging requirements and operating the shift drum motor/solenoids.
    ...
    Alternator generates about 70-75% of energy at an idle RPM (min. 14.2V). Most current is unused and shunted to the ground. The easiest way to check if battery is a supplier or receiver of energy, is to connect ammeter to battery and observe direction of current.
    Last edited by lootzyan; 10th October 2018 at 12:22.

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