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Thread: NC700x DCT Neutral/gear selection problem

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    NC700x DCT Neutral/gear selection problem

    Hi,

    I experienced some problems with my NC700X DCT (2012, 19,500 miles) today.
    As I stopped at a red light I tried to switch to N. The gear indicator disappeared, but the green "N" didn't appear. I tried to press the D/S button to engage gear again, but it didn't work.
    I had to restart the engine in order to get it into gear again. I tried this several times today and it happens every time I try to enter N.
    This is what I've found out so far:
    When going from a gear (any mode, manual, D or S) to N it struggles.
    I can see the headlight pulsating slightly and hear a weak, rhythmical clicking from the gearbox (or there about, RH side).
    Sometimes it manages to enter N after 2-3 seconds, and what seems like 5-8 "attempts", but other times it doesn't manage this at all.
    The only solution I've found so far is to restart the engine.
    Since I can hear something going on I'm thinking that it could be a mechanical problem.

    I've checked the oil level - no problems there.
    Have any of you experienced something similar?

    I hope that someone can help me with the troubleshooting.

    - Stale

  2. #2
    Super Moderator NC700x DCT Neutral/gear selection problem 670cc's Avatar
    Bike: NC700X, GL1800, Ruckus 50, KLX140L
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    How old is the battery? Since the engine is typically at idle when selecting neutral, it is the point where the bike's charging system has the least output. Thus the battery is called upon to make up the shortfall. If your battery is really weak, it may result in the flickering headlight and the shifting problems.

    On the other hand, it could easily be a mechanical gearbox problem. Does rocking the bike forward and back gently help the gears engage or disengage?
    Greg
    AMA Life Member
    "230,000 Mile Club"

    NanCyX

  3. #3
    Senior Member DCTFAN's Avatar
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    So, no problems shifting gears when moving?
    That eliminates gear shift motor. The only thing that changes
    between moving and at rest is the amount of juice the shift motor gets.
    While moving, I believe the alternator provides enough current to the shift motor.
    At a stop, the alternator does not produce much current and thus the culprit looks like your
    battery with a weak charge. Don't just measure the voltage on the battery,
    take it to a shop (any Auto retailer) and have them analyze the batt.


    Did not see 670cc posted b4 I did.
    +1
    What he said
    Last edited by DCTFAN; 9th December 2016 at 19:32.

  4. #4
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    I actually had problems shifting up while accelerating. Had the bike in manual, accelerated and tried to shift up on the button. Pressed (and spammed) the up-button but it didn't go from 4th to 5th until about 6000rpm (didn't open the throttle all the way). This happened more than once.
    The first time it got stuck and didn't engage neutral I tried to rev the engine, but it made no difference. Therfore I don't think it's due to lack of voltage.

    I will go out later today and test if rocking the bike will make a difference.

  5. #5
    Senior Member HarveyM's Avatar
    Bike: 2016 NC750X DCT
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    Quote Originally Posted by StaleSK View Post
    Hi,


    I can see the headlight pulsating slightly and hear a weak, rhythmical clicking from the gearbox (or there about, RH side).

    I hope that someone can help me with the troubleshooting.

    - Stale
    Start with your battery/charging system.
    If that doesn't fix it, things get really expensive!


    Here's a comment from a Honda dealer & NC owner
    Quote Originally Posted by HONDABIKEPRO View Post
    make sure you bike is on a battery charger when sitting, any voltage drop on a dct model with affect shifting, cold weather will make this worse with low voltage. dale
    Last edited by HarveyM; 10th December 2016 at 12:46.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Short Time's Avatar
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    Good to know. I was not aware of how extra critical battery strength is with DCT models.
    If ignorance is bliss, you'd think more people would be happy.

  7. #7
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    I spent some time testing last night, this is what I discovered:
    - It doesn't seem to make a difference if the bike is hot or cold.
    - Rocking the bike did not make any difference and it still struggled to go from D/S to N. When caught in this "between-stage" it doesn't go into N, D or S (the gear indicator disappears) .
    - Tried revving the engine but that made no difference either.
    - The harder i accelerate the slower the gear changes. If I cruise at about 30 mph with a steady throttle it changes gear when I press the button, but if i accelerate hard it takes longer (up to 2-3 seconds to change gear in Manual). I tried this in S and I actually hit the rev limiter in 2nd gear before it changed up.
    - Going from 3rd to 4th is definitely the slowest when in manual.
    - When i go from D/S to N (and it gets stuck) i can feel a slight, rhythmical movement in the bike, like it's trying to pull away slightly.

    Do you think that low voltage can be the cause even when i experience problems on high revs?

    I will try charging the battery over night anyway to see if it makes a difference .

    Thanks for your replies!

    - Stale.

  8. #8
    Senior Member DCTFAN's Avatar
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    Assuming your batt checks out, the symptoms you describe makes
    your DCT a prime candidate for the 'Clutch Reinitialize' procedure outlined in the service manual.
    I believe there was a thread on how to do it.

    Quote Originally Posted by StaleSK View Post
    I spent some time testing last night, this is what I discovered:
    - It doesn't seem to make a difference if the bike is hot or cold.
    - Rocking the bike did not make any difference and it still struggled to go from D/S to N. When caught in this "between-stage" it doesn't go into N, D or S (the gear indicator disappears) .
    - Tried revving the engine but that made no difference either.
    - The harder i accelerate the slower the gear changes. If I cruise at about 30 mph with a steady throttle it changes gear when I press the button, but if i accelerate hard it takes longer (up to 2-3 seconds to change gear in Manual). I tried this in S and I actually hit the rev limiter in 2nd gear before it changed up.
    - Going from 3rd to 4th is definitely the slowest when in manual.
    - When i go from D/S to N (and it gets stuck) i can feel a slight, rhythmical movement in the bike, like it's trying to pull away slightly.

    Do you think that low voltage can be the cause even when i experience problems on high revs?

    I will try charging the battery over night anyway to see if it makes a difference .

    Thanks for your replies!

    - Stale.

  9. #9
    Senior Member NC700x DCT Neutral/gear selection problem BerndM's Avatar
    Bike: 2013 NC700X-D
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    Here is the DCT initialization procedure as originally posted by "smiller" back on July 16, 2016

    The procedure is as follows:

    1. Fully warm the engine to normal operating temperature.

    2. Make sure that the stop/run switch is in the 'run' position and then turn on the ignition switch while holding down the 'D' shift switch on the right handlebar. Hold down the 'D' switch until the MIL (engine icon) goes off. You should see the outline of the the gear selector box on the LCD display but it should be empty (no D or S, no gear shown).

    3. Operate the shift selector switch as follows (one push for each): D-D-N-D-N . After this is done 'D' and 'S' should show in the gear indicator box, along with a '-' sign in the center flashing at approx. 2 second intervals. (If you see an 'L' in the display the engine is not warm enough, if so then shut off the ignition, start the bike and bring it up to normal operating temperature, shut it off, and start again at Step 2.)

    4. Start the engine and let it idle. Do not touch the throttle. The calibration is complete when the D and S indicators disappear. Shut off the engine and the calibration process is complete. (If the '-' starts blinking rapidly at 1/2 second intervals then the calibration process failed, shut of the ignition and repeat from Step 2.)


    I wouldn't advise messing with the calibration just for the hell of it, but if you are experiencing a minor running problem such as the one I described above it may help.
    Regards
    Bernd

    2013 Honda NC700X-D (Red of course) # 100345


  10. #10
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    Stale, I'm having exactly the same problem. Mine is worse with engine cold. When I see that Neutral can't be engaged,I rev the engine and that seems to fix the problem for that occasion. Like you I'll put the battery charger on overnight and failing that I'll try the re initialisation procedure as outlined. Thanks to everyone for being so helpful

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