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Thread: Seat mod......slope change

  1. #21
    Senior Member Seat mod......slope change bamamate's Avatar
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    Did this one today using the above instructions and pics. Works great.

    Previous: Kawasaki MT1A 75 (small fat tires, auto clutch), CB400 (Hawk), and after a 20+ year hiatus a NC700X

  2. #22
    Member Seat mod......slope change Pabaldeagle's Avatar
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    Hey bamamate. The seat slope does keep me sliding into the frunk, but after four hours riding today, I was still comfortable. I just want to raise the front. Which instruction did you follow? The soggybottom or nc700x.com? Are adding spacers enough or does the tongue top slot need not to be added too? If not too much trouble, a photo of what you did would be much appreciated.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pabaldeagle View Post
    Hey bamamate. The seat slope does keep me sliding into the frunk, but after four hours riding today, I was still comfortable. I just want to raise the front. Which instruction did you follow? The soggybottom or nc700x.com? Are adding spacers enough or does the tongue top slot need not to be added too? If not too much trouble, a photo of what you did would be much appreciated.
    Post #14 with pictures in this tread pretty much covers it. The raised tongue slot needs to be added, but not reinforced, the spacers need to be added, they support the seat. The tongue locates the seat and stops upward and side movement. Others maybe doing this differently?
    Last edited by showkey; 21st January 2013 at 10:28.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by showkey View Post
    Post #14 with pictures in this tread pretty much covers it. The raised tongue slot needs to be added, but not reinforced, the spacers need to be added, they support the seat. The tongue locates the seat and stops upward and side movement. Others maybe doing this differently?
    either way will work fine for you, and achieve the same result. niether of the procedures are permanate or irreversable, the same result will be achieved no matter which way it is done.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Seat mod......slope change bamamate's Avatar
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    I did showkey's post #14 but without the added brace under the tongue though my work doesn't look as good.

    I poked around Lowes for stuff to use. For the slot I used flat mending brace that I found by the hinges row. It is thicker than needs to be but works. Bent it into the shape and cut off the excess. For the spacers I couldn't find bumpers with mushrooms so I used 1" rubber stoppers. Found them in the specialty fastners section. Cut them off to the desired height drilled a hole through the middle and used a panhead bolt with large washer on top and nylon lock nut. I made them about 3/4" tall to start with since I didn't know how much they would compress. I need to trim them down a little.

    Previous: Kawasaki MT1A 75 (small fat tires, auto clutch), CB400 (Hawk), and after a 20+ year hiatus a NC700X

  6. #26
    Senior Member Seat mod......slope change
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    Its not rocket science bama, your on the right track, its a little late but I used automotive double face tape for the spacers, it just eliminates drilling those 2 holes and will look better if the mod is reversed. The tounge support tab is not needed as long as you get good contact on the 2 side bumpers.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Seat mod......slope change bamamate's Avatar
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    I thought about using something with tape but power tools are so fun to use......and the bike will be so old when I get rid of it that no one would want it.

    Previous: Kawasaki MT1A 75 (small fat tires, auto clutch), CB400 (Hawk), and after a 20+ year hiatus a NC700X

  8. #28
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    Could you glue the new rubber pads on the ones on the seat pan ?

  9. #29
    Senior Member Seat mod......slope change bamamate's Avatar
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    Might work. It would have to be the right kind of glue for the materials. I would wonder how well the glue would hold up. Glues generally don't hold well with sideways or twisting pressure. They are generally ment for straight pulling pressure. Sorry, I don't remember the technical terms (sheer strength etc). I could tell from the marks that the bumpers do move around a little.

    Honestly drilling wasn't a big deal. I used #10 panhead bolts so the holes are small. I put a small piece of wood between the bracket and the gas tank to catch the bit when it broke through. Making the bracket for the tongue was the hardest part.

    Previous: Kawasaki MT1A 75 (small fat tires, auto clutch), CB400 (Hawk), and after a 20+ year hiatus a NC700X

  10. #30
    Senior Member Seat mod......slope change
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    The tape I use for things like this is 3M doubleface, you can get a small roll at most autoparts stores. Its the stuff that holds on moldings and logos on cars, it is really tough, I use it to hold 12v powerports to metal or plastic parts on many motorcycles. It is a b!toh to remove, much harder than self stick velcro. Make sure you clean parts with alcohol before applying.

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