I was thinking that same bracket Showkey, I may weld a 1.5 inch tongue to the bottom of the fabricated U to protrud to the rear. It will raise me another 1/4 inch and add some support to the plastic tongue on the seat. Either way it can be returned to stock simply by removing the 2 bolts.
I took another look at the seat support system.....by raising the seat by the tongue only there are two rubber support buttons one on each side of the seat bottom that are no longer in contact with the frame pad. Would be a very good idea for these buttons to be supported as well. I am sure they did not add those rubber buttons for fun. NEED to tweak the design so not a put unneeded stress on the seat bottom over time. Longer buttons or two blocks in the area where those buttons land.
Picture of the seat bottom rubber bottom.
Grease added to show where they land on the seat support system. (Tongue bracket removed)
IT is rarely simple and this is proof: So off to build some supports. Because I can not live with the stock slope.
It appears to me now, the seat tongue was never meant to bear down weight, only to stop the seat from lift and position right and left. The front seat bottom rubbers carry the weight. So next pic show the new "landing zone" for the front seat rubber bumpers supports.
Caution: If your drilling in the seat support frame area for any mods, the fuel tank is directly below this area.....do not blow through and damage or drill or just plain knock a hole in the tank......... obvious but worth mentioning.
I now believe the added support of the tongue bottom is not needed. The design evolves.
Last edited by showkey; 13th January 2013 at 17:21.
I DID THIS MOD TODAY WITH A LITTLE DIFFERENT TWIST. IN USING THESE PICS ALREADY HERE ,IT IS ABOUT AN HOUR JOB, IT IS EASY, AND EFFECTIVE. FIRST THING DID WAS DRILL 1/4" HOLE IN THE METAL TANG. I USED A STAINLESS SHOULDER BOLT, FROM HONDA, AS LOCATER AND CAP...I.E. THE SEAT CANNOT MOVE. THEN I CHUCKED UP A 1/2" END MILL, AND MACHINED OUT THE PLASTIC TOUNGE ON THE SEAT. YOU WILL NEED TO GO APPROX 1.00 IN TOWARDS THE REAR,USING THE CENTER PLASTIC RIB AS A GUIDE. LASTLY I DRILLED 2x 3/8 HOLES WHERE THE SEAT PADS RIDE ON EACH SIDE OF THE METAL TANG. I USED SOME SOFT 3/4" RUBBER SNUBBERS/PADS SOURCED FROM THE LOCAL HARDWARE. THEY SNAP RIGHT IN, AND STAY THERE. ONCE TOGETHER EVERYTHING IS VERY SOLID AND TIGHT. THE BACK OF THE SEAT LINES RIGHT UP, AND IT RAISES THE FRONT APPROX. 1". THERE ARE TWO REALLY NICE THINGS ABOUT THIS MOD. NONE OF THIS IS VISABLE OR PERMANATE OR IRREVERSIBLE. AND THE SEAT, WHILE RIGHT @ THE TANK, NO LONGER RUBS ON THE TANK,AND WILL NOT WEAR ON THE PAINT. THE ONLY WAY ANYTHING IS EVEN NOTICABLE,IS AT THE BOTTOM FRONT OF THE SEAT DOES NOT QUITE FOLLOW THE BODY LINE. BUT THE EXTRA COMFORT IS WELL WORTH IT. THIS IS A CHEAP ALTERNATIVE TO CHANGING OUT WHAT I FEEL IS A GOOD SEAT.
sorry all that is in caps, usualy my computer takes of all that for me.
Do you have a nut on the the screws the hold the rubber bumpers for the seat?
I just put a 1/2 inch spacer where the rubber bumpers touch down. 1/2 inch seems right but it may need a shim or 2 to be perfect. I'll have to ride it some to make sure the rubber is touching down but this week its been colder in the Az desert than in the north east!