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Thread: 2016 - upgrades?

  1. #1
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    2016 - upgrades?

    So I bought a 2016 NC700X - DCT used a while back here in the US. It came with the OEM bags, a rear rack, and a big something-or-other windscreen.

    So I've been evaluating what I like, and don't.

    1) Rear Rack: I hate rear racks. I hate them. Can anyone explain how to remove the rear rack that is part of the OEM rack/bag kit? I have none of the factory equipment. I'd like to leave the bag mounts thought.

    2) Saddle - after an hour in the seat I'm really done and just want to not be riding any more. Solution 1 would be 'lose weight' , but who likes what seats?

    3) Suspension - most bikes people seem to say 'upgrade upgrade upgrade' first and foremost. I'm not sure if it's good/bad, but google shows nada on people doing it, so what's the community thought?

    4) Any other comfort-aspects I should consider for longer rides? Should I grab crash bars and mount foot pegs?

  2. #2
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    Is the ‘16 like the ‘12 in terms of how the rear rack mounts? I thought it was. If so, take the 4 bolts out (2 per side) that bolt it to the grab handles. You’ll _also_ have to significantly loosen or more likely remove at least one of the two grab handles. This is necessary to release the rear rack (luggage mount plate) from its interference fit with the grab handles.

  3. #3
    Member 2016 - upgrades?
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    Can't really advise you on the factory rack but if you decide to go aftermarket both the both Givi and SW Motech allow you to run the side racks with no rear rack and the SW Motech racks are quick release so you can remove them if you are not running bags.

    Saddles are so individual that its hard to recommend what would work for you. I tried the Saddlemen foam and cover kit and the Corbin. I found the Corbin was right for me.

    Suspension depends on how and where you ride. I am currently running the stock suspension after having the Cogent Dynamics front and rear. If the suspension doesn't bother you then leave it alone. For any kind of off pavement or spirited high performance riding you will probably want to upgrade. In stock form the fork is harsh over sharp bumps and the rear is underdamped leading to some wallowing around during fast cornering.

  4. #4
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    I had looked at some of the kits, and assumed I 'needed' the rear rack as some type of spacer/stabilizer/etc. I'll check it again. Stupid assumption.

  5. #5
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    I just ride city streets and highway. It's OK. I had a CB500X before this with a rally tier 1 package on it, and it was amazing. I don't find the stock suspension on the NC terrible, but I wasn't sure if it would contribute to sore-butt.

    As far as seats, it's hard to spend what amounts to thousands of dollars on guessing games. I don't have a pneumatic stapler like Seat Concepts suggests (and I'd rather not drop 25$ on one then 50$ on a compressor). All the other seats are around 300$ and up, so I thought I'd look for suggestions before spending $$.

    The other problem I have with DIY seats is I can't stand to have my bike 'broken' or otherwise non-operational. Even if I'm not riding, drives me nuts. And I tend to break things so I give it 50/50 odds I'd manage to destroy the foam, the kit, or the pan.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator 2016 - upgrades? 670cc's Avatar
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    Different seats fit different butts. Here is my seat of the pants take on them. Your mileage may vary.

    Shad - soft foam, still has forward slope, great for short rides but crushes down on long trips, lowers height a bit.

    Sargent - firm, better shape that stock, still slopes forward, some of their covers are slippery.

    Seat Concepts (kit on stock pan) - tall, firm, wide, best for taller, heavier riders. Eliminates forward slope. A low version is available.

    Corbin - dished and a bit wider than stock, very firm, slight forward slope, big Corbin logo.

    Saddlemen (kit on stock pan) - looks good, eliminates slope, a bit firm because it has gel insert, shape almost there but not quite perfect for multi day rides.

    Russell Day Long - Pricey, custom made, best for 34+ inch inseams. Styling a little odd for NC. Not for everyone, but if it can be made to fit you, is probably the ultimate.

    You can always go with an air cushion top like an Air Hawk if you just do occasional long rides. The secret is to put almost no air in them.
    Greg
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    NanCyX . . . . . . . . . . The 250

  7. #7
    Member 2016 - upgrades?
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    With regards to the Corbin, I don't like the logo either. You can specify the logo color so I had them make it in black to blend in with the seat. The Corbin does have a slight slope so I did raise the front a little with the slope mod. Seems to be perfect now but a little harder to touch the ground. (I'm short). It is very firm but it does seem to breaking in.

  8. #8
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    I have experienced no perceptible 'break in' (meaning softening) of the foam on my Corbin seat over the past 20,000+ miles. Perception is a variable, fickle thing.

  9. #9
    Member 2016 - upgrades?
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    I don't think they get any softer. Mine is still rock hard but I think over time they start to conform to the shape of your butt.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the advice, lots to shop for now.

    One more: does the slope mode noticeably effect how the seat fits on the bike? It feels like if you did that it would be less secure? I know it doesn't really 'slot' like a traditional seat, so you can adjust it, but putting the tab on top of the securing strap just makes me a bit uncomfortable.

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