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Thread: Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT

  1. #11
    Senior Member Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT sumo's Avatar
    Bike: 2016 NC750X DCT ABS
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    I only got as far as removing the handlebar bolts. None of the cables seem to have any slack, I'd have to remove some plastic to get a good look but I suspect it's not just a matter of snipping some tie wraps. The brake hose is really tight, looks like a longer one would be needed...anyway, I failed and I'm going for a ride!

    Here are some pictures for reference:
    Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT-1-jpg

  2. #12
    Senior Member Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCTMadstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT PortlandZinMan's Avatar
    Bike: 2014 NC700X DCT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis M View Post
    I think you must have the winglets or their mounting brackets installed wrong, my stock height handlebars don't even come close to the winglets when turning. I had the cheap cycle gear handguards on my bike and they did hit the Madstad windshield so I took them off but even they weren't close to the winglets
    I concur - just looked - maybe he has the brackets switched? Look closely at the shape of the openings on his brackets and mine (my winglets stay clear of the bars easily).

    (later after more careful inspection...are the winglet brackets different on a 2016 vs a 2014?)

    Note - my Givi handgards do hit the actual windscreen on full luck, but the handguards are soft plastic and give easily which make this a non-safety issue. I just have the guards on in the winter for wind protection.

    Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT-img_5491-jpg
    Last edited by PortlandZinMan; 9th April 2017 at 09:58.
    Don
    PortlandZinMan
    2014 NC700 DCT
    Portland, OR

  3. #13
    Senior Member greenboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sumo View Post
    I only got as far as removing the handlebar bolts. None of the cables seem to have any slack
    Didn't have to change routing anywhere, pulled slack up without even undoing anything. I suspect it comes down to whoever assembled the NC in the first place and where they dressed the various wiring harnesses.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/greenboy667/albums



  4. #14
    Senior Member Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT FezUSA's Avatar
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    The winglets design is different on the 2016+ model, as is the mounting brackets. They originally sent me pre-2016 versions and I've currently got both sets until I send the old style back. And no, there's no way to mix them up as the mounting bolts are different distances apart! I took them off this morning and went for a ride. I've only tried a couple of screen positions so far, and need to try more as there was no difference in noise at the helmet level. Most of the wind definitely seems to be coming over and around the indicators, so those deflectors seem like they're much needed!

    I think 1" risers are called for, as others have mentioned. Sumo, there's another recent post by Helix installing risers and he did remove some plastics to get to a cable 'hook' to free up slack on the brake line. Seems to think it might be possible to do without removing plastics now that we know what we're looking for. Not sure how the rest of the cables are. Also, from other posts in general, it seems like 1" risers should be OK, 2" gets a little tight.

    I just went back out to the bike with the brackets. There really is only one way to install them. If you flip them over or try them on the other side of the bike they just won't work. For now I'll leave them off and look at 1" riser options, specifically the Motowerk ones that Helix installed on his 2016.
    --
    Fez

  5. #15
    Senior Member Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT FezUSA's Avatar
    Bike: 2016 NC700X DCT
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    Not decided yet between the Motowerks linked earlier in the thread, or SW-Motech ones which are available in a range of heights and they even a "Barback" version which is 31mm up and 22mm back for a 38mm (or 1.5") triangulated adjustment. This will give a little more than the 1" risers up AND back without stretching the lines to 2" which seems to be the maximum. The ones that Greenboy & Sumo have would be the best value though if I decide to go the "Barback" route vs. a straight rise.

    In other good news, I dropped the screen to it's lowest and most vertical setting this morning and my bike sounds like a completely different beast!! If I raised myself off the saddle even an inch it was back to the normal noise level. So I'm much happier with this. There was still some noise and some airflow coming around and over the indicators, but it was so much quieter, and much quieter than having the screen at the mid & highest level. I'll continue to play with it to see how the various height and angle settings affect the noise and airflow, but I'm happy knowing that I've got at least one option for a quieter ride!!

    Oh, and someone else posted this in an earlier thread about this screen: you go faster!! Looked down at one point and realised I was +10 over my normal speed!! Good timing as I slowed down and not 30 seconds later a trooper passed in the opposite direction and as usual looked at their radar readout! Got a little worried because a mile down the road and I saw flashing blue lights in my mirrors. Pulled the car over behind me though!!
    --
    Fez

  6. #16
    Senior Member Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT
    Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT

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    I haven't taken my handlebars off yet, but I'm thinking about installing risers that move the bar back so I can sit further back and more upright.

    From the looks of it my cables are really tight.

    I did see another post awhile back from someone who changed to a shorter bar with more vertical in the U section.
    The controls were moved up, but closer together so the net change in cable length was nil, other than a little bit more effort to steer.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCTMadstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT
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    I used the ROX risers on my 2013 NC700xd and I have the MadStad with winglets and do not have the problem with them. I also had enough slack in the cabling and all, that I was able to install without binding problems.

  8. #18
    Member Vinny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sumo View Post
    I only got as far as removing the handlebar bolts. None of the cables seem to have any slack, I'd have to remove some plastic to get a good look but I suspect it's not just a matter of snipping some tie wraps. The brake hose is really tight, looks like a longer one would be needed...anyway, I failed and I'm going for a ride!

    Here are some pictures for reference:
    Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT-1-jpg
    Really like the looks of those risers... what brand?

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