Motorcycle don't lie!
Alright as promised. Here are the things you need to build one. Whether it's worth the time you judge yourself as some other solutions might work.
Here are the reasons I want one:
- Fully automatic and controlled by magnetic switch
- No holes drilled in your FRUNK
- Multiple super bright, super thin, super durable and low-powered light source
- Tap your 12V m/c battery, no separate AA/AAA batteries required
- Small foot print as if it's not there
- 3x Car Decorative 0.96W 60LM 7500K 6x3528 SMD LED White Light Water Resistant Flexible Strips - Pair
- Magnetic Reed switch 59140 https://www.digikey.com/product-detai...-030-ND/154464 (links may updated, on search page type in 59140-030-ND
- Complement magnet switch https://www.digikey.com/product-detai...0-000-ND/43978 (links may updated, on search page type in 57140-000-ND
Note: Digi-Key Canadian website www.digikey.ca
- 2x wire connectors / pigtails
- one extra wire for -ve terminal
- Tools like: Electrical tape/ scissors/ wire stripper/ super glue
- Service manual (to dismantle and re-install the FRUNK) Note: You may get away without but maybe challenging to route wires and install the switches.
1. Locating Holes and Positioning the LEDs
There are three holes within the frunk where you can route wires out. Two are located near the hinge where the lid and the frunk held on each other. The other one is hidden under the document compartment. I think this is the drainage hole. Now that you know where the holes are, try getting general idea of where you want your strips located. I find the best way is to temporary affix them using tape through trial and error until you are satisfied. Ideally you want to place them as close to these holes as possible for you want to expose less wiring around the frunk. Do not worry about making PERFECT positions at this point. You will have the chance to adjust later on. Note: Each hole can accommodate 2 pairs of wires except the drainage hole which I think you can squeeze 3-4 pairs.
This is one of the must-have location as it gives the LED downward facing (to light up the frunk from top):
2. Routing and Grouping the Wires
Route all wires out of these holes and group them by -ve and +ve. You may need to peel the wire pair to create more distance and in my case I have to strip the jacket/ insulation to expose more wire. Twist them together and connect using a wire connector/ pig tail. For -ve connections, include the extra wire. In essence, this is my setup:
- VE group: 6x -ve wires, one extra wire and BLACK wire from the switch
+ VE group: 6x +ve wires, and WHITE wire from the switch
3. Attaching the Reeds Switch
This little switch is amazing. There is no mechanical movement or touching connectors. They simply work by magnetic field similar to that installed by the windows/ doors in your home alarm system. I managed to find the smallest one with enough rating to carry all the LED loads. Using tape, temporary using tape, attach the base unit (with 3 wires: black/blue/white) just below the lock plate (not shown) so that it is aligned per picture below.
Temporary using tape, attach the activating switch at the center of the lid making sure they are aligned when lid is closed.
4. Testing the LED and the switch
I use 9V battery to do the test.
It is important to test making sure all LEDs are working and the switch are positioned correctly when ON/OFF is expected. Attach the extra wire to the NEGATIVE pole and blue wire (from the switch) to the POSITIVE pole of the battery. If you wire up correctly, all your LEDs should light up. Open/ close lid to test the ON/OFF function. LEDs should OFF when lid is closed and ON when opened. If they behave opposite (i.e. lights up when lid closed) switch around the BLACK/WHITE wires.
Once you are satisfied, glue them. I use Gorilla Glue to attach them.
5. Tidy up wires
Install the FRUNK back to your NC and route your cables properly. I recommend using the electrical wiring tape for the ones out from drainage hole and make sure they are not touching the engine. The two LED strips near the battery are optional if you prefer not to use the drainage hole in the document compartment.
This is what it might look like.
Once everything is in place, you can peel off the film from the back of the LEDs and attach it.
That's it. YMMV. FRUNK it with LEDs!
Last edited by lamlamz; 12th November 2012 at 19:54.
Ok so my magnetic switch no longer work properly. I wired them up to a switch. See some pics.
Anyone use a trunklight? Got a switch on it, when lid opens light comes on. Could wire direct to battery.
The other NC (I bought used, pictured in post #4) had a mercury switch that turned on a frunk LED when the lid was raised. It was wired to the bike battery. One day shortly after I got the bike, it’s fairly new battery was found totally dead. I suspected that the mercury switch stuck on. I abandoned that and wired it to a user operated switch inside the frunk. Since then, no battery problems.
Based on that experience, I’d prefer a stick-on independent light so as not to take any chance that a frunk light could be left on unknowingly and drain the bike’s battery.
I use a cheap button cell head torch; it has a spring clip and can be angled - and removing the elasticated head band, clips perfectly to the lip on the lid. It happily stays there even when the lid is closed, as the sprung clip on the torch is so thin.
Handily, it also doubles ...as a head torch!. So, if you've got to look for something that fell out of the side case when you get home in he dark, you can take it off to do just that :-)
I bought mine from the UK outdoor shop "Trespass", but I'm sure you'll find something like it in any camping store.
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When I was wiring up my other accessories I added these 2 led strips
Cigarette outlet, dual usb outlet, on/off switch for auxiliary lights and on/off switch for frunk leds
Last edited by rippin209; 12th February 2019 at 13:41.
Sturdy velcro and cheap head torch with adjustable angle - perfectly fits in the inner lip of the lid!
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