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Thread: To beak or not to beak

  1. #11
    Senior Member rippin209's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TacomaJD View Post
    I need to fool with mine and figure out how easy it is to remove the whole thing lights and all from the tail section. I'm planning on doing a trackday in September and I'd rather remove the whole thing versus taping over all the lenses so that's one less thing to destroy/replace if I end up going down. Maybe I can figure how to put some inline disconnects in each of the rear blinker and tail light wires, or just simply unplug and hide the wires if it's made like that, so I can easily take it off and put it back on in between track days.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    the wires are actually pretty easy to disconnect (nice plugs with enough slack to work with) it's the hardware that I found time consuming, still it's not bad. I'd say 30 min the first time you remove it and around 15 after your familiar with it

  2. #12
    Senior Member rippin209's Avatar
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    Also if there's a chance you'll go down I'd recommend getting protection for your controls as well as engine guard and/or frame sliders.

    JFG-RACING Black Hand Guards Handguards - 7/8" 22mm and 1 1/8" 28mm with Universal Mounting Kits For For Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Dirt Bike Motorcycle MX Motocross Supermoto Racing ATV Quad KAYO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073LJV4K1..._QPQkDbVKVYA8G

    If I hadn't already spent the money on Barkbusters I would buy these (no personal experience with them) just something I ran across that looked good

    My Bark buster saved my controls heated grips and throttle from damage, my bars did get bent and my shifter assembly was mangled (hence the recommendation for an engine guard, I don't have one) sounds fun be sure to share the highlights if you end up doing track days
    Last edited by rippin209; 13th July 2019 at 21:38.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rippin209 View Post
    Also if there's a chance you'll go down I'd recommend getting protection for your controls as well as engine guard and/or frame sliders.

    JFG-RACING Black Hand Guards Handguards - 7/8" 22mm and 1 1/8" 28mm with Universal Mounting Kits For For Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Dirt Bike Motorcycle MX Motocross Supermoto Racing ATV Quad KAYO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073LJV4K1..._QPQkDbVKVYA8G

    If I hadn't already spent the money on Barkbusters I would but those (no personal experience with them) just something I ran across that looked good

    My Bark buster saved my controls heated grips and throttle from damage, my bars did get bent and my shifter assembly was mangled (hence the recommendation for an engine guard, I don't have one) sounds fun be sure to share the highlights if you end up doing track days
    Back in the day, I had a 2007 ZX10R I bought new. Was afraid to track it bc I was afraid to scratch it. Bought a wrecked 02 GSXR 750 and rebuilt it into a track bike, done my first track day on it. They way STT does track days, the first 2 sessions in Novice are single file no passing to get you familiar with the track. Then they start turning each rider loose in the 3rd session. Once turned loose, I lowsided about 3/4 the way through my first lap at Barber Motorsports Park because of poor form. I done maybe one more track day on that bike then sold it and bought track skins for my ZX10R and started tracking it. Done 8 or 9 different trackdays after that first one, through Intermediate and into Advance group, and never crashed again.

    I don't expect to crash, but I also know it will be "different" finding the NC's limits on track, especially with my highway peg setup and cornering low. I am going to raise it a bit from its current position to avoid it dragging. I'm super curious as to whether I will be able to drag knee on either side on the NC since it is so tall. Sportbike seat height is only roughly 1" less than the NC stock seat height, so I'm betting I will get one or both knees down on track. We will see. I don't know much about GoPros, but might do some research and find one and film a couple sessions.

    I'm sure I can avoid crashing, but planning for the worst either way. Frame sliders would be sweet, prob wont opt for engine guards though, mainly bc the left one may interfere with my leg position.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by TacomaJD; 13th July 2019 at 21:53.

  4. #14
    Senior Member rippin209's Avatar
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    The NC can go low enough to drag pegs on both sides (I've done so myself on 36 between Humboldt and Redding CA) my OEM side cases didn't interfere with that at all by the way. My friend trying to keep up on his GSXR 750 was impressed To beak or not to beak

    After personally learning the realities of hitting an object capable of suddenly and completely stopping you I won't be riding like that on public roads ever again (and no I wasn't riding stupid or aggressive when I went down) I'm just going to try a little harder to avoid a repeat or worse lol

    If frame sliders meet your needs that's great (they're cheaper) when I went down on my NC my side cases were on (they almost always are) and the saved my seat, body work and rear light assembly from getting damaged, my shift assembly did get mangled, I was able to repair mine luckily but if I had to replace the damaged pieces it would have been very expensive.

    Aluminum bracket, shift lever and the very specific mounting bolt for the shifter were all damaged and are all surprisingly expensive, the aftermarket pegs are cheap luckily

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