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Thread: Replacement Battery

  1. #11
    Senior Member Replacement Battery happy's Avatar
    Bike: BMW R1200GSA 2018, (Sold)NC700X-ABS-ManualTrans
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    Last year (or 2 yrs back), I changed to the same battery as recommended by Honda manual.
    It cost a bit more than 100usd but it holds it charge better.

    Caution about Gel battery, it will require a different charger and charging cycle compared to Acid-Water cells.
    I don't think the weight saving is any reason to buy a Gel-Cell.

    One thing more I did not mention about my recent trade reason. My bike battery / charging system was behaving strangely. I leave the bike charging on a trickle charger for weeks. It started right up with 1 single press. After riding for 20 minutes on highway, say 10km, I stopped. Then almost immediately I try to restart the bike. I press button but the starter is like "stuck" with no batter juice. I gotta wait a few seconds (say 20) and then it could start again (somewhat reluctantly).

    So what is the problem? Charging system? Magneto coil? Overcharged battery?

    I gave up trying to find the electrical problem, and I am now waiting for my next motorcycle. I know some will criticize me for being impatient etc, but life's too short to be stuck roadside with a dead battery (even new one).


    ~Happy Joe
    LIfe's short, stop writing and start riding ...
    if everyone thinks like me, there is no need for a forum...

  2. #12
    Senior Member ste7ios's Avatar
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    It’s very rare to find a real gel cell battery. Mostly it’s bad marketing. Always check manufacturers web pages about the battery type.

    Happy you’re right, every lead acid battery type has a slightly charging profile. Most of today’s vehicles are compatible only with AGM & LiFePO4.

    A simple dumb trickle charger without monitoring to stop the charging, will overcharge a battery causing gassing i.e. it will dry the electrolyte killing the battery. I recommend only descent smart chargers / battery maintainers (like Optimate or ctek) because they automate the process and keep the battery fully charged (this is what a lead acid need to avoid sulfation) without any damage.

    It’s always a good idea to check the health of the charging system (with a battery in good condition). You shouldn’t avoid it...

    I can’t tell anything about you without any measurements. 20’ & 10 Km are not enough to fully charge a battery, you’ve to double it, but it should have enough charge to start the bike (unless you forgot lights on or it was cold enough). Most probably it was the battery. It needs some time to recover between engine startings...

  3. #13
    Senior Member Replacement Battery happy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ste7ios View Post
    A simple dumb trickle charger without monitoring to stop the charging, will overcharge a battery causing gassing i.e. it will dry the electrolyte killing the battery. I recommend only descent smart chargers / battery maintainers (like Optimate or ctek) because they automate the process and keep the battery fully charged (this is what a lead acid need to avoid sulfation) without any damage.

    It’s always a good idea to check the health of the charging system (with a battery in good condition). You shouldn’t avoid it...

    I can’t tell anything about you without any measurements. 20’ & 10 Km are not enough to fully charge a battery, you’ve to double it, but it should have enough charge to start the bike (unless you forgot lights on or it was cold enough). Most probably it was the battery. It needs some time to recover between engine startings...
    I have now a new battery installed last year or 2015. My charger is an automatic one...albeit cheap one.
    I have had enough of that sinking feeling when I press the startbutton and all I feel is a "almost dead" battery.
    So....bye bye Honda.
    (Plus my other reason of the tensioner breakage)
    ~Happy Joe
    LIfe's short, stop writing and start riding ...
    if everyone thinks like me, there is no need for a forum...

  4. #14
    Senior Member Brillot2000's Avatar
    Bike: 2013 NC700XD, 2010 NT700V, 1987 XL600R
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    Quote Originally Posted by happy View Post
    Caution about Gel battery, it will require a different charger and charging cycle compared to Acid-Water cells.
    I don't think the weight saving is any reason to buy a Gel-Cell.
    I read that somewhere too. However, I am willing to try it out for $40 and see how long it will last on this bike. If I get only 2 years out of it, then I am out $20 per year.

    I will try it out so others will not have to unless they really want to for themselves.
    Bruce B.
    Sun Valley, CA, U.S.A.
    2013 NC700XD (DCT) - NaNCy
    1987 XL600R - Megas
    2010 NT700V - NaTalie



  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    I believe, Deltran Battery tender Jr are good units for charging / maintaining a battery from time too time. I do not keep a battery hooked up to one all the time. I'll use the Deltran every other week in the winter on both my bike batteries. My TW200 Yuasa battery is 6 years old , still charges well.

  6. #16
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    For those of us who aren't up to our gussets in snow for half the year, riding all year round (with plenty of washing to get rid of the road salt) eliminates the need for a charger for me.

    I'm surprised that no one seems to have ventured into the Lithium battery route. Virtually weightless, can be much smaller and needs a different charger but expensive.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
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    There are a few threads about lithium batteries. This one of them.

    Lithium Battery?

  8. #18
    Senior Member ste7ios's Avatar
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    I don’t trust any charger, they can be faulty for any reason (by design, damaged, etc) . I always measure the charging voltage and monitor them at the first charge, and then occasionally, once a year or something. Some of them can be harmful to the battery, even from very known manufacturers like Deltran. There was a tender jr. that could damage the battery by overcharging. Some are accurate enough, some not so, they don’t benefit the battery but they don’t damage it...

    Using one or not it depends if the battery can get fully charged. City riding, short distances / time can be a reason to use one.

    As every battery LiFePO4 has its advantages & disadvantages. Have in mind that most proposed LFP batteries are not for real life scenarios and are undersized to be more affordable (e.g. 4 Ah instead of 11 Ah). They don’t take in mind parasitic drain, cold, etc.

  9. #19
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    Checking a battery under a load is helpful also , static checks , not so much.

  10. #20
    Senior Member ste7ios's Avatar
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    Yes, an Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) measurement is indicative to the state of charge (SoC), not 100% reliable. (Only hydrometer Measurements are reliable but impossible with VRLA batteries).

    A load test is necessary to determine if the battery has enough power to start the engine.

    Take a look at https://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf or Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University for more info.

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