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Thread: Rear tire slow leak...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Rear tire slow leak... Afan's Avatar
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    Rear tire slow leak...

    I have slow leak on the rear tire. Didn't have time to find where's exactly is leaking, a hole or against the bead, but my plan is to take off the rear wheel and tire, and to fix it myself.
    I took off rear tires on my ST1100 but never on NC. I'm pretty sure I'm capable of doing it but if someone can point me in the right direction with some article or YouTube video, just in case?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Rear tire slow leak... Afan's Avatar
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    I found this YouTube video

    Honda NC750X Rear Wheel Removal - YouTube

    but it's NC750X, don't now how much it's applicable to my NC700X DCT?!?

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Rear tire slow leak... 670cc's Avatar
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    The rear wheel removal procedure is in your owners manual, including torque values for reinstallation.

    The 750 and 700 rear wheels are mounted in the same way.

    When it’s a slow leak and no puncture is obvious, it’s common for the tires to leak where the bead is in contact with the rim. The rim tends to corrode. I have had this happen myself on the rear wheel. You can break the bead and sand the rim leak area with very fine sand paper. I suggest reseating the bead with a proper tire mounting lubricant. Using detergent and water as a lubricant will just make your problems worse in the future.
    Last edited by 670cc; 2nd April 2018 at 14:57.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Rear tire slow leak...
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    Agree with what 670 said above. I can be stubborn and try my own way first which often leads me to what others originally advised Only thing I would add is that you will need need a good compressor or air storage container to seat the bead especially with the larger rear tire. Investing in the tire lube will really reduce the frustration from breaking the bead and re-seating...don't ask how I know

  5. #5
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    If the leak is between the bead and rim, it should be easy to find with dish soap/water solution. I go ~10% Dawn to 90% water solution. It bubbles nicely at the site of any leak.

  6. #6
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    Whoa, before you go through any of that check the valve stem. Sometimes for whatever reason that little needle inside works a half a turn loose. Do you have a valve wrench? Some valve caps have one built in.

    Always start at the easy solution first. Then work your way to taking things apart.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmy da vig View Post
    Always start at the easy solution first. Then work your way to taking things apart.
    You beat me to it, I don't get why the first action is to take the wheel off...
    Inspect for foreign objects.
    Check the valve.
    Spray soapy water on the bead.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Paulplex's Avatar
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    Cheers for this post, all who have added to it: same boat here! I'm losing ~6 PSI in an hour's ride - I've got a 12v compressor, so check before every ride right now - and again at rest stops. Rest tyre never gets below 36, but it's a pain!

    I'll get out the soapy water when I get home and start checking :-)

    Sent from my Mi A2 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    I'll +1 on the valve stem. Whether the valve core has turned out a bit, some dust or crud is causing a leak, or rim corrosion exists making a leak at the rim-valve interface, I've seen all of these.

    Oh, and I'd check as much as possible with the wheel on the bike; just spray a dish-soap and water solution around until you see a mound of bubbles forming. Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.

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