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Thread: Fork oil change

  1. #21
    Senior Member Fork oil change dduelin's Avatar
    Bike: NC700XD, ST1300, Elite 80
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray View Post
    Thanks for the efforts in writing up :thumb:

    I would like to check if using brake cleaner to clean the inside of the fork is generally acceptable. I did not remove the bottom bolt to release the fork piston, which I believed some old oil got stuck inside. Ended up the new oil was a little mulky after filling up as it was mixed with some old oil and junk at the bottom of the fork.
    I am no chemist but I've had or still have high mileage bikes that I used this same method every 15 or 20,000 miles to clean out. Brake cleaner isn't especially harsh and flashes off quickly. It doesn't harm fork seals and I don't usually have to replace them in any less than 80 to 100,000 miles.
    Dave

    GL1800
    NC700XD




  2. #22
    Fixed Idea Fork oil change
    Fork oil change
    L.B.S.'s Avatar
    Bike: CBR125R NC700XA
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    I've never had brake cleaner ever screw up anything on a bike I was trying to clean, used where appropriate. (ie: not the windscreen or instrument cluster face, lol)
    Chillin' with Cybersix and Data 7 in Meridiana

  3. #23
    Senior Member
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    Thanks folks. While on the same topic, is a fork seal driver really necessary when changing the seals? Seems kinda expensive.


  4. #24
    Senior Member Fork oil change dduelin's Avatar
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    I've used a driver I made out of 2" ID plastic pipe a couple of feet long. Cut 8 cuts about 6" long in one end and slip a hose clamp over the "fingers" made by the cuts. Tightening the clamp pulls the fingers evenly around the fork tube where they press against the seal when you tap on the other end of the pipe. This was something I saw on another forum. Total cost was a few dollars.

    Last edited by dduelin; 7th May 2014 at 03:46.
    Dave

    GL1800
    NC700XD




  5. #25
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by dduelin View Post
    I've used a driver I made out of 2" ID plastic pipe a couple of feet long. Cut 8 cuts about 6" long in one end and slip a hose clamp over the "fingers" made by the cuts. Tightening the clamp pulls the fingers evenly around the fork tube where they press against the seal when you tap on the other end of the pipe.
    Great idea! Thanks

  6. #26
    Senior Member Fork oil change
    Bike: 2013 NC700X
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    Nice post. This one is waaay beyond my mechanical desire - but I appreciate the post and your attention to detail.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Wcmike's Avatar
    Bike: NC700X
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    Just a quick thanks to Dave for posting this last year. I just changed my fork oil at a little over 19,000 miles. This helped a lot. The old oil looked like melted chocolate ice cream.

    I regret that I didn't put on gaiters or emulators but the bike feels better. I live on a unpaved road that looks like something they guys at Rawhyde would practice on and the bike felt better going over the washboards.

  8. #28
    Junior Member Fork oil change DB1965's Avatar
    Bike: NC750XA Arcadian Red
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    Buddy you inspired me to do my own now with that in depth clear and consice how to with pics pics, will be changing my springs out for the hyperpro progressives for my 750x
    Cheers David

  9. #29
    Member welshintheusa's Avatar
    Bike: soon to be NC700XD
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    Plus with changing the Weight of the oil, we can get a harder or softer ride. I would say that, they come a little on the soft side!
    Common courtesy and Respect cost nothing.

  10. #30
    Senior Member
    Bike: Honda NC700x
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    I just learn how to adjust valves and now this... Anyone near Los Angeles area know how to do this? I will ride over... I will bring my folk oil and lots of beers!

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