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Thread: Fork oil change

  1. #11
    Senior Member Fork oil change StratTuner's Avatar
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    An amazing effort! It's just like the service manual only way better!
    - StratTuner
    NC700XFJR1300

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  2. #12
    Senior Member Fork oil change dduelin's Avatar
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    Some notes to add:

    The lower fork clamp is carbon steel and there was quite a bit of surface corrosion staining (rust stains) on the fork tubes where the lower clamp surrounded them. I used a bit Fine bronze wool and WD40 to remove the rust stains and polish the surfaces clean again. The wool won't scratch the chrome but removes the rust stains. I would want to do this at least yearly where I live to prevent rust getting through the chrome and pitting the tubes under the clamp.

    Honda recommends the 2 caliper retaining bolts be replaced with new ones every time they are removed. It is a special ALOC bolt with a removable thread locker compound on the threads. The color of the removable Honda compound is red. I mentioned I will reuse these once or twice before replacing with new. Before reassembly I clean the threads and apply a dot of blue LocTite thread locker. Blue Loctite is removable - Red LocTite is not easily removed.

    I rode the bike about 300 miles the next day, yesterday. I know the original fluid was not degraded much at 17,250 miles but the new fluid seemed to soften the harsh high speed damping the NC700X has over large or repeated sharp-edged bumps. Maybe it was just a placebo effect but it still felt better.
    Dave

    GL1800
    NC700XD




  3. #13
    Senior Member Fork oil change Fuzzy's Avatar
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    Vibratite is a thread locker that can be applied to bolts to be used at a later date. It is red. Locktite is typically for bolt to be installed immediately after application.
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dduelin View Post
    Some notes to add:

    The lower fork clamp is carbon steel and there was quite a bit of surface corrosion staining (rust stains) on the fork tubes where the lower clamp surrounded them. I used a bit Fine bronze wool and WD40 to remove the rust stains and polish the surfaces clean again. The wool won't scratch the chrome but removes the rust stains. I would want to do this at least yearly where I live to prevent rust getting through the chrome and pitting the tubes under the clamp.

    Honda recommends the 2 caliper retaining bolts be replaced with new ones every time they are removed. It is a special ALOC bolt with a removable thread locker compound on the threads. The color of the removable Honda compound is red. I mentioned I will reuse these once or twice before replacing with new. Before reassembly I clean the threads and apply a dot of blue LocTite thread locker. Blue Loctite is removable - Red LocTite is not easily removed.

    I rode the bike about 300 miles the next day, yesterday. I know the original fluid was not degraded much at 17,250 miles but the new fluid seemed to soften the harsh high speed damping the NC700X has over large or repeated sharp-edged bumps. Maybe it was just a placebo effect but it still felt better.
    I was asking about this in the off-road thread. You just confirmed my worries about rust on that lower clamp. Thanks for the info on how to clean it up. Will leaving the WD40 on to prevent corrosion create any safety issues?

  5. #15
    Senior Member JDE's Avatar
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    I'm getting really close to doing this now. Got about 17.5k miles miles and the are going by very quickly now that the riding season is in full swing for me. At 100mi a day commuting I'm begining to feel like it's time to do this. I also am thinking about getting Race Tech springs and Gold Valves when I do this. Couple questions though. Did you have to, or even did you replace the seals for the forks at the same time? Is there a general mileage/time frame to proactively change them out or just wait until they fail? Trying to figure out what other tools and parts I may need to purchase before tackling this job.
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  6. #16
    Super Moderator Fork oil change 670cc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDE View Post
    I'm getting really close to doing this now. Got about 17.5k miles miles and the are going by very quickly now that the riding season is in full swing for me. At 100mi a day commuting I'm begining to feel like it's time to do this. I also am thinking about getting Race Tech springs and Gold Valves when I do this. Couple questions though. Did you have to, or even did you replace the seals for the forks at the same time? Is there a general mileage/time frame to proactively change them out or just wait until they fail? Trying to figure out what other tools and parts I may need to purchase before tackling this job.
    I would replace the seals only when they fail. You can change oil, install the RaceTech parts, and drill the damper rod without ever touching the seals or separating the inner and outer fork tubes.
    Greg
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  7. #17
    Senior Member JDE's Avatar
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    Cool, thanks for the reply 670cc! Now I just need to call Race Tech tomorrow and see which springs and oil they recommend for my weight and ride I'm looking for.

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  8. #18
    Senior Member Fork oil change Cyclerosis's Avatar
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    Super tech write up! Thanks for taking the time to put the procedure in writing. I'd just like to mention though, the axle is a 17mm hex instead of 27mm.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Fork oil change dduelin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyclerosis View Post
    Super tech write up! Thanks for taking the time to put the procedure in writing. I'd just like to mention though, the axle is a 17mm hex instead of 27mm.
    Thanks for catching that mistake. I corrected the text.
    Dave

    GL1800
    NC700XD




  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dduelin View Post
    After the tubes quit draining I spray a liberal quantity of brake cleaner into the tube and pump the tube into the leg to clean out the goop in the bottom of the legs and fork orifices. Turn the leg and tube upside and pump it dry. Fluid will remain in the fork bottom unless you pump it out. The diluted oil & cleaner that comes out should be clean. I let the forks drain upside down again for a few minutes then place them upright in the jig to completely dry.
    Thanks for the efforts in writing up :thumb:

    I would like to check if using brake cleaner to clean the inside of the fork is generally acceptable. I did not remove the bottom bolt to release the fork piston, which I believed some old oil got stuck inside. Ended up the new oil was a little mulky after filling up as it was mixed with some old oil and junk at the bottom of the fork.

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