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Thread: Brake bleeder hose diameter

  1. #1
    Senior Member GregC's Avatar
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    Brake bleeder hose diameter

    Hoping to replace brake pads this weekend on my 2015 DCT (EBC HH pads). Will change the brake fluid while Im at it.

    Question: what diameter bleeder hose? Ive seen both 1/4 and 3/8 quoted. Im using the stock bleeders in the 2-man operation (no speed bleeders or vacuum system).

    Thanks.


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  2. #2
    Senior Member rippin209's Avatar
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    I'm almost positive it was 1/4 but it's been awhile

  3. #3
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    Clear vinyl tube is often sold by the OD. 3/8” OD tubing is about 1/4” ID which works just fine. 5/16 OD is tighter fit and the fit.........all the choices is very dependent on temperature and flexibility of the tubing.

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    I bought a bleeder kit at Advance Auto Parts for something like $10, has a clear tube with 3 different size rubber fittings that fit onto the bleeders, the other end connects onto a non spillable cup to catch the fluid. The smallest bleeder fitting fit the NC perfectly. Super easy kit to use. Went in to buy clear tube and rig up my own catch bottle, but they didn't have any clear tube by itself so I bought the bleeder kit. Worked out pretty good. So if all else fails, visit your local parts store, they should have whatever you need to get it done.

    P.S....dont do like I did and buy a large bottle of dot4....large bottles are harder to pour without making a mess. If needed, buy 2 small bottles so that you have plenty on hand to flush the system good. But it doesn't take much to fill up the reservoirs a few times, so one small bottle would probably suffice.

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    Last edited by TacomaJD; 30th August 2019 at 00:17.

  5. #5
    Senior Member GregC's Avatar
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    Great advice - thanks all. One last question for those that have done this since Im doing pads and fluid, is it pads then fluid, or fluid then pads?

    My plan would be change the pads first then change the fluid - thought being to have the correct pad thickness in for the fluid change (recognizing were only talking mm of difference).

    But, in case theres some meaningful difference in the order of work Im missing, thought Id ask. Brake bleeder hose diameter


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  6. #6
    Super Moderator Brake bleeder hose diameter 670cc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregC View Post
    Great advice - thanks all. One last question for those that have done this — since I’m doing pads and fluid, is it pads then fluid, or fluid then pads?

    My plan would be change the pads first then change the fluid - thought being to have the correct pad thickness in for the fluid change (recognizing we’re only talking mm of difference).

    But, in case there’s some meaningful difference in the order of work I’m missing, thought I’d ask. Brake bleeder hose diameter


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    Changing the pads first makes sense. If you need to press the pistons back in to allow space for the new pads, you’ll be wanting to suck some fluid out of the reservoir to have room. You might as well suck most of it out anyway at the start of the fluid change and start the bleed process with as much fresh fluid as possible.

    When you are finished with the bleeding, you’ll set the level in the reservoir and you’re done.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Brake bleeder hose diameter
    Brake bleeder hose diameter
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    Make sure the reservoir has been emptied before you start pushing the pistons back into the caliper, otherwise spillage may damage the paint. Once the pistons are flush in the caliper, suck the remaining old fluid out, clean the bottom of the reservoir with a fresh paper towel, then refill and reinstall cover. Now, you'll only have a tiny bit of old fluid to bleed from the system.

    Be sure to top off once the bleeding is completed.

    ps. whatever size tubing you use, try and buy a thin-wall version because it'll be a lot easier to slip over the bleed nipple.

  8. #8
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    I'm not sure that I would be emptying the reservoir, as that could lead to accidental air in the lines if you are not careful. I didn't suck any fluid out of either reservoir when I done mine either, just simply bled it out until there wasn't much left in the reservoir, fill to top, bleed that out til reservoir level is low again, fill and repeat until fluid runs clear. You definitely can suck the fluid out, if you have something to do that with, I didn't at the time so I just ran fluid through each reservoir about 4 times.

    You should be able to change your brake pads without doing anything to the brake fluid first, even removing the reservoir caps. If the reservoir caps are not removed, there will not be any chance of spilling.

    The way I would do it is change brake pads first, then flush fluid. I've never had an issue opening calipers enough for new pads on motorcycles to fit back on the rotor.

    I've even put the new pads in, wrapped a cloth around end of flat head screwdriver, carefully wedge between the pads to open them enough to go onto the rotors. I know that's not ideal, but it can be done without damaging the pads.

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  9. #9
    Senior Member Brake bleeder hose diameter ld_rider's Avatar
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    Unless you have added brake fluid since your last pad change, I don't think the fluid can overflow the fill reservoir when pushing the pistons back to fit the new pads.

    As the pad wear, the pistons will naturally have to push out further. That will cause more fluid to be pumped from the reservoir into the brake lines (hence the need for a "reservoir" of fluid).

    When the pistons are pushed back to make room for the new, thicker pads the original volume of fluid will be pumped back into the reservoir. That volume of fluid never changes unless (obviously) more fluid was added at some point previously, when the pistons were in the "out" position.

    I typically have a difficult time getting that rock solid brake feel after a fluid or brake pad change. I found wrapping a bungee cord (or large rubber band) around the brake levers so that the brakes are "applied" and leaving it over night will do the trick. The result is a nice tight brake lever with no spongy feel at all.

    To be safe, you can always pull a bit of fluid from the reservoir, it isn't going to hurt anything but I've never had to do it.
    Last edited by ld_rider; 30th August 2019 at 10:40.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member GregC's Avatar
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    It seems Rocky Mt ATV send me the wrong from brake pads. I specified 2015 NC700x DCT ... they sent EBC HH #FA388HH. They are considerably too long. It seems the package had a new part number sticker put on (see last photo). Perhaps that's the mistake?

    can anyone confirm front and rear EBC HH part numbers for a 2015 NC700x DCT? I've checked 3 different sites and they all say FA388HH, but these are just clearly too long (tried fitting them in the caliper just in case, but no chance of working).

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