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Thread: 2015 DCT Brake Replacement

  1. #1
    Senior Member GregC's Avatar
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    2015 DCT Brake Replacement

    Iím going to be replacing front and rear brakes on my 2015 DCT. My question is what miscellaneous parts should I replace, rather than reuse, while Iím at it (pins, springs, bolts, etc. )? Iíve looked at the Babbittís part list but itís so detailed itís not terribly instructive

    Thanks.


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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregC View Post
    I’m going to be replacing front and rear brakes on my 2015 DCT. My question is what miscellaneous parts should I replace, rather than reuse, while I’m at it (pins, springs, bolts, etc. )? I’ve looked at the Babbitt’s part list but it’s so detailed it’s not terribly instructive

    Thanks.


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    How many miles on it? Unless you have a ton of miles on it, I wouldn't worry about replacing anything but pads and fluid.

  3. #3
    Senior Member GregC's Avatar
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    Only about 24k - I usually try to have new versions of the various ďbitsĒ when doing work like this (a) in case something bends or breaks, (b) gets dropped into the wormhole that must exist in my garage where many dropped nuts, bolts, washers, clips and springs disappear, and (c) on the theory that why not replace small inexpensive items like this while things are apart.


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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregC View Post
    Only about 24k - I usually try to have new versions of the various ďbitsĒ when doing work like this (a) in case something bends or breaks, (b) gets dropped into the wormhole that must exist in my garage where many dropped nuts, bolts, washers, clips and springs disappear, and (c) on the theory that why not replace small inexpensive items like this while things are apart.


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    I think it would be pointless to replace anything in either caliper besides the pads. If something fails in it over a LONG length of time, it would probably just end up with a piston sticking, in which case it'd make sense to toss that caliper and install an oem replacement, or upgrade if you like. 24k miles is nothing on bike calipers. Changing pads is pretty straight forward and either caliper can be removed in 2 minutes or less. It'd be different if you were doing something very difficult and time consuming like tearing engine or transmission down, in which case it would make sense to consider revamping any internals that are cheap to replace and that would otherwise be difficult and time consuming to access without it already being torn down for some other reason.

    But if you like working on things just for the sake of tinkering, do a rebuild. When is the last time you changed out brake fluid front and rear? If it's been a while, time would be better spent doing that vs. rebuilding calipers. Good luck!

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    Last edited by TacomaJD; 13th August 2019 at 07:40.

  5. #5
    Senior Member 2015 DCT Brake Replacement
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    On some calipers, there are other things that wear. I have a Beringer 4pot supermoto caliper with a wallowed out pad retainer pin hole. I think it needs a rebuild too. Then again, it's $150 in parts for the rebuild, and a few bucks/some of my time putting a bronze bushing in the wallowed out hole, vs $600 for a new caliper.

    I doubt there are issues like that on a factory caliper though.
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  6. #6
    Member NCX19's Avatar
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    After having just replaced my front pads - watch out for the 2 SS spring clips that secure to the inside of the caliper.
    Also the inboard pad had a stainless backing pad, and what I take to be an insulating pad between the SS backer and the brake pad I re-used.
    And of course there is the retaining pin.
    I cleaned those parts back up and used a very light film of brake specific grease on em during reassembly.

    If its been a while you may need to remove light corrosion on the retaining pin, or replace it.

    Another thing to have on hand is some locktite for the caliper bolts and retaining pin threads.

    Do yourself a favor and remove the caliper to work on it. I thought I could do a smooth-operator job and swap the pads on the bike. Once I spent 5-10 min dicking around with no success re-installing em I removed the caliper and had it reworked in a couple min.

    5mm hex for retaining pin, 12mm socket for caliper bolts
    Last edited by NCX19; 13th August 2019 at 21:04.

  7. #7
    Senior Member GregC's Avatar
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    2015 DCT Brake Replacement

    Does anyone have the part numbers for EBC HH sintered pads for 2012-2015 NC700x DCT? Iíve been to about every parts site and Iím confused because some appear to say the front and rear pads are different, and some say they are the same. ??????


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  8. #8
    Senior Member 2015 DCT Brake Replacement dduelin's Avatar
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    IIRC the EBC catalogue lists 12-17 models together but actually you will want 2014-2015 for your bike as earlier models use a different caliper up front.

    I’m traveling this morning and can’t look it up but I’m 99% sure the 2015 ABS/DCT takes FA196 pads in front and FA174 in the back. The suffix will be HH for sintered metal pad material. 388s should fit only 12-13 ABS/DCT models.
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  9. #9
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    I am looking for EBC brake pads for my 2013 NC700X DCT, front pads only. Anybody got a link to the correct ones for my particular model so I don't have to order some just to find out they are wrong like it seems everybody else has done? Anybody put them on a 2013 dct w/ABS?

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  10. #10
    Senior Member 2015 DCT Brake Replacement dduelin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TacomaJD View Post
    I am looking for EBC brake pads for my 2013 NC700X DCT, front pads only. Anybody got a link to the correct ones for my particular model so I don't have to order some just to find out they are wrong like it seems everybody else has done? Anybody put them on a 2013 dct w/ABS?

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    Look at the front caliper of your 2013. If the caliper has 3 pistons it takes the EBC 388, if it has 2 pistons it takes 196.
    Last edited by dduelin; 10th October 2019 at 20:46.
    Dave

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