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Thread: Bike won't start- all apears normal.

  1. #1
    Senior Member Bike won't start- all apears normal. SilverRocket's Avatar
    Bike: 2016 NC700XDLG
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    Bike won't start- all apears normal.

    So I tried starting my bike on Sunday morning. Turn the key everything lights up as normal, but all I get is a Click-Clack sound followed by a buzzing noise and then the Check Engine light and Coolant Temperature Indicator both shut off. They light up while I hit the starter button, which I think is normal.
    Kickstand up/ down, Ignition Kill switch is off, brake on/off. Nothing seems to get it started.
    So I put it away and went to work. When I came home that evening it started up like normal, several times. No battery issues.
    But this morning it's refusing to start up again.
    It's been foggy both mornings and cooler than usual but I can't believe THAT would cause this.

    Any thoughts on areas that I can check with my limited skills?

    Of course, all this happens after I cancelled the motorcycle roadside assistance part of my Auto Club membership, since they've refused to help me twice with key and lock issues.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Gigs's Avatar
    Bike: 2012 NC700X
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    Have the battery tested. I know my battery (the original from 2012) doesn't like starting cold. The cold can severely affect battery cranking amps.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Super Moderator
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    Battery or battery connections are the prime suspects at this time with the info available.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    My battery died after 3 years exactly like that and i had it on a trickle charger the whole time. Batteries are pretty cheap abd are very easy to replace. Make sure the connectors are clean before you attach them to the new battery. You can use CRC battery spray or silicone dielectric grease after everything is connected to keep moisture/corrosion out if you live in a humid environment as well. A battery tender is also a good idea if the bike is not in use for several weeks.
    Last edited by bvogel7475; 30th October 2018 at 19:23.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bike won't start- all apears normal. SilverRocket's Avatar
    Bike: 2016 NC700XDLG
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    I'm going to have the battery checked tomorrow. I ride almost every day and it's never given me any trouble on any of my bikes.
    Though, since I bought a demo last year I can't be sure it was new then, or if it's 2 years old.
    Will report back later.
    Fingers are crossed!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Wildfire's Avatar
    Bike: 2012 NC700XA
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    If it were a car I would be giving the starter a smack with a 2x4 after ruling out the battery or leads. You've checked for corrosion on the terminals right?

  7. #7
    Senior Member Bike won't start- all apears normal. davidc83's Avatar
    Bike: Suzuki C50; 2009 klx250sf; 2013 Nc700
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    Disconnect the battery terminals (connectors), clean them with light sand paper or use a fine file and then reconnect the terminals to the battery. While you are at clean, clean the battery posts. I had something similar happen to me a couple of months ago on my C50 Boulevard; riding the bike, making several stops, stopped at best buy, went out and nothing when trying to start. I removed the connectors, cleaned them with a small file, reconnected and vroom.....
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    My 2 year old battery did the same thing. 1000 miles a month, no long time sitting.
    A few times I got a click the first try, then one day it didn't start at all.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bike won't start- all apears normal. SilverRocket's Avatar
    Bike: 2016 NC700XDLG
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    So I disconnected the battery and took it down to the shop. They said it was a little low, right at 12.4 volts, which is what I think I read was the cutoff point for battery voltage. They hooked it up to a trickle charger for 4 hours.

    I took it home and installed it. There were no standard terminals to clean on my battery, like on a car, but it didn't matter. The metal was like new and the grease was also like it had been put on yesterday. No corrosion at all.
    It took a while to hook up the terminals. The battery kept sliding down into the "cave" it sits in while I was trying to line up the holes for the bolts.

    Once installed, I said a little prayer and turned the key and pushed the start button. The bike started up like it should! I turned it off, held my breath, and started it again. No issues. I took it for a short ride twice around the block in M mode in low gears. Not sure if it just idling would charge the battery.

    There is one big difference- the weather is now warm and dry. Not cool and foggy.

    The other thing I noticed when I was taking the chain off the rear wheel (I didn't bother to unlock the bike until I was certain it would run!) was that there was a tiny pool of what looked like water, maybe oily water, under the bike- right by the brake pedal. Not sure where it came out of. About a teaspoon.

    Does the DCT have a lower idle rpm versus the manual? Since we have that ridiculous bar tach I can't say what the rpm at idle is, but if I raised it the bike might roll forward when I take my hand and foot off the brake, like in a automatic car.
    Is the DCT supposed to move forward when not under braking? Could a low idle speed mean the bike doesn't charge the battery as well? It would be interesting to have a voltage meter hooked up while riding to see.

    Anyway, I had to go through 5 days of not having my bike and having to drive my car, which is like going into battle for the ride to work and back home. I hope This is just a one time issue, but I think I will look into getting a battery charger for insurance, just in case.
    Any recommendations?
    Thanks all!

  10. #10
    Senior Member ste7ios's Avatar
    Bike: NC700XD (2012)
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    At 12.4V the battery holds only 40% of its named capacity and it’s too weak. It doesn’t have enough power. Usually that’s the time to replace it.

    Note that the voltage measurement is only indicative of the battery status. It can be false. You also need a load test to evaluate its status.

    See the Yuasa Technical Manual for more details...

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