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Thread: Bike won't start - Display dead, no activity

  1. #11
    Senior Member Griff's Avatar
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    You mentioned that You checked the main fuse. Did you replace it ? A friends bike lost all power recently. The fuse was one of the first things he checked. Looked ok. Then he proceeded to dismantle the bodywork to check all electrics. He could find nothing. After an hour or so he went back to the OK fuse and replaced it. Bike started.
    It's never too late to have a happy childhood.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Bike won't start - Display dead, no activity
    Bike won't start - Display dead, no activity

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    Another good reason to use a multimeter to test for voltage at multiple locations starting at the battery and working methodically through fuse, key switch, connectors to the display, etc. to see where the voltage goes away.

    You could also use the ohmmeter side to ensure the fuse is truly zero resistance and that you have zero (or near zero) resistance from the 'battery negative' to ground connections, etc, etc

    Too many possibilities to make a wild guess.
    >T
    I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up.

  3. #13
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    So I went back and checked the main fuse again and it was blown out. I replaced the fuse hoping that it was just a silly oversight and that that would fix it but unfortunately it didn't.
    I measured the voltage on the battery again: it was at 12.9V standing and dropped to <1V when I turned the key (without pressing the ignition).
    I ran my brother's battery in my bike again to see if that would solve the problem and it started right up! I'm guessing my battery just has a few bad cells. I think it's a fairly old battery.
    I'm just glad it's a fairly simple/inexpensive fix.
    Thanks for your advice everybody! I really appreciate it.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator
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    Thanks for completing the thread witha confirmed fix.

    Sounds like another sudden death battery failure. But two issues overlapping bad battery witha blown main fuse.

    The “sudden death” is not a NC thing........it’s just a common way batteries fail now days as opposed to “slow death” with warnings like low power, slow cranking etc.
    Last edited by showkey; 25th July 2018 at 05:46.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by showkey View Post
    Thanks for completing the thread witha confirmed fix.

    Sounds like another sudden death battery failure. But two issues overlapping bad battery witha blown main fuse.
    I don't know that I'd call that confirmed just yet. Fuses don't just blow for no reason.

    Given the two symptoms you mention, bad battery and blown fuse, I would worry about a dead short to ground somewhere (fuse doing its job). Such a short could ruin the battery and could ruin the next battery. If it's intermittent; it would explain why the brother's battery works.

    I hope it's not the case, but I would be all over that with a meter before I put a new battery in.

    Remove the battery, connect the meter leads to the battery terminals, put the meter in the ohms position, make sure there's no reaction from the meter. Then shake the heck out of the harness and make sure the meter doesn't react. Turn the key to run, let the meter settle wherever it lands, then shake the key, and then the harness- again watching for the meter display to wig out.
    Last edited by Mainsail; 25th July 2018 at 07:18.
    I don't want a pickle.....

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsoli View Post
    ... I turned the key and hit the ignition. The bike turned over once before abruptly cutting out, and I lost all electrical activity...
    Mainsail, you are correct.
    Something prevented starter motor to turn. (It's hard to speculate without examination - it could be a short circuit). This caused sharp jump of current which brought a battery to its knees. Main fuse has a time delayed action before it blows, long enough to protect circuit and prevent fire but not to protect a battery. Those batteries have relatively low capacity of stored energy and they just die under excessive load. You may try to recharge it.
    Last edited by lootzyan; 25th July 2018 at 09:44.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by lootzyan View Post
    Mainsail, you are correct.
    Something prevented starter motor to turn. (It's hard to speculate without examination - it could be a short circuit). This caused sharp jump of current which brought a battery to its knees. Main fuse has a time delayed action before it blows, long enough to protect circuit and prevent fire but not to protect a battery. Those batteries have relatively low capacity of stored energy and they just die under excessive load. You may try to recharge it.
    Yes, I forgot about the starter part. So the short could be with the starter path (including the relay)? This sounds like a problem I just fixed on my Jeep Grand Cherokee by replacing the starter assembly.
    I don't want a pickle.....

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainsail View Post
    I don't know that I'd call that confirmed just yet. Fuses don't just blow for no reason.

    Given the two symptoms you mention, bad battery and blown fuse, I would worry about a dead short to ground somewhere (fuse doing its job). Such a short could ruin the battery and could ruin the next battery. If it's intermittent; it would explain why the brother's battery works.

    I hope it's not the case, but I would be all over that with a meter before I put a new battery in.

    t.

    Yes .....I was giving the OP the benefit of the doubt as he feels it’s fixed. The one possible link between a dead battery and a replacement battery install is a reverse polarity error. Speculation at this point. Only time will tell and future posts if the bike is actually fixed for the long haul.

    Success of the forum information exchange is OP posting that they back on the road.

  9. #19
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    Did you ever discover the solution to this problem. I am having the same symptoms - display dead when ignition key turned to on position and bike won't start. Checked the battery (12.1 volts) in place and also disconnected. The main fuse (30 A) is good. All the fuses in the fuse box are good. The starter relay clicks when 12 V are applied (and goes to zero resistance between the switch leads). I suspect that the ignition switch is bad, but can't find any information on line on testing it or replacing it. Saw your post and wondered if you have an easy solution to this problem.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Bike won't start - Display dead, no activity dduelin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAmster View Post
    Did you ever discover the solution to this problem. I am having the same symptoms - display dead when ignition key turned to on position and bike won't start. Checked the battery (12.1 volts) in place and also disconnected. The main fuse (30 A) is good. All the fuses in the fuse box are good. The starter relay clicks when 12 V are applied (and goes to zero resistance between the switch leads). I suspect that the ignition switch is bad, but can't find any information on line on testing it or replacing it. Saw your post and wondered if you have an easy solution to this problem.
    12.1 volts is “deader than a door nail”. If the battery is holding 12.1 volts then that’s about 90% discharged. Standing voltage of a fully charged healthy 12 volt battery is 12.8 to 13.1.
    Dave

    GL1800
    NC700XD




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