I feel your pain, but look here:
86-1 code on 2015 Nc700x DCT
Others that had this code 86 also have found loose battery contacts.
Stranded yesterday near Tuba City. AZ. Had a glitch in Grand Canyon South, stuck in traffic. Selected neutral, not normal for me. After a couple minutes turned the engine off. When traffic started moving, turned ignition on but no neutral light, pushing buttons did nothing. Turned ignition off and on, got neutral and started normally. Carried on toward Tuba City. 2 miles east of US89 and US160 intersection, lost all motive force just free wheeling. Gear selector said 2, couldn't gear neutral light. Slight "click" as if gear was partially selected. Dead in the water. Note this was while driving, not at a stop. Coasted into a wide spot off the road and called for help.
Friend drove over from Kingman (260 miles) to rescue me. Got home at 3 this morning.
.Fiddled this morning until got neutral light. After reading on this site and in the service manual, tried several things to no avail. Bike starts and runs fine but will not shift out of neutral.
Worst part, this was supposed to be the start of a 3 month trip. Now, even if I get her going, I don't feel I can trust the bike for a 10,000 mile journey way out into Nova Scotia.
And, I'm going to miss my grand daughter's birthday in Illinois.
DCT shows 86 (Communication Fault) and 9 (Clutch Line EOP Sensor). Frustration doesn't begin to cover it. I don't feel I can trust this bike for a long trip. At 30,000 miles, similar age and mileage to other folks who have had the broken shifter pin. Is That a likely outcome or am I missing something simple?
The DCT models are extremely sensitive to battery voltage levels.
I took my battery in for a load test, tests as new. Guaranteed the battery connections are tight. I also disconnected all my add-on electrics except the LED headlight. Maybe need to do that too.
As of now, bike starts fine, engine sounds as normal, N light is lit. Will not shift from neutral. I feel like I'm missing something simple, feeling very frustrated. Help!
Last edited by cattmando; 20th June 2018 at 09:23.
It's probably just me, but just saw MIL defined. Malfunction Indicator Light. And it was on a post at this site. Still haven't seen it defined in the manual. Feeling very frustrated.
Haven't even pulled the owners manual, assumed the service manual would have everything. I'll do that.
Side stand seems okay but I'll check. Bike is on the center stand with side stand up, and it's in neutral so side stand switch is out of the circuit. Bike starts and runs okay, just can't shift into gear.
DUH! All definitions are on page 1-2 of the service manual.
MIL blinks to read out DTC code from the PCM at MCS connected to the DLC. If MCS is not available, short the G and Br wires att the DLC using the SCS service connector. Or a thin paper clip.
Just deciphering all the alphabet has been a learning process.
I've also pulled a bunch of plastic just to get to some stuff. Haven't actually performed any troubleshooting tests beyod the clutch reset procedure. Also working on my Kawasaki so I'll have something to ride while this one is down.
Any details on the "broke shift pin"? I can't find that post.
Last edited by cattmando; 18th June 2018 at 19:43.
I will take your comment as intended. Just possible the switch went faulty by coincidence though it has worked properly up to the the point of the failure. Too late tonight, I'll check it all in the AM. Just got my Kawasaki gas tank sealed up so at least I've got a ride in the meantime.
IF the switch went bad at the least opportune moment, would the clutch open and attempt to go to Neutral? Cause that was the symptom. Since it had already faulted just an hour earlier, and recovered quickly, I just assumed both events were related. Maybe not.
Update in the AM
No, if memory serves dropping the side stand in gear kills the engine. It works the same on DCT or manual tranny bikes.
Edit- That is the recommended side stand test (owner's manual).
Last edited by HarveyM; 19th June 2018 at 16:14.
I confirm, extending the sidestand while in S/D/manual kills the engine.
lootzyan wins the initial prize as the side stand was down when I went to check, after his intial post. But, it had not been down douring intial attempts. My bad.
Read the codes via the MIL. Wasn't aware they could be read by the - indicator. Haven't seen that yet in the manual. I reset the codes and they haven't returned. Transient faults?
I did the clutch Initialize Learning Procedure. Now able to shift to First. Can't change to S or M, can't shift back to Neurtral unless ignition is turned off. Did drive around the driveway one time, clutch can be made to engage.
Was getting "clicking" noises, like a relay slowly cycling. Would do it 4 or 5 times then quit. Now, it does at least engage. Didn't get up to speed at all so don't know if it will shift.
Gonna go thru more troubleshooting procedures soon's the Kawasaki is back together. More trouble there as the bottom of the tank is riddled with pin holes and can't find a replacement.
Called the local Honda shop, they can't get it in for at least three weeks. Gonna make an appointment anyway. If we figure it out before then, I can always cancel.