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Thread: Chain life

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Bike: Honda NC700X
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Posts
    3

    Angry Chain life

    I am disappointed with needing to renew my NC700X chain after only 20 000kms. I am generally a conservative rider and regularly adjust and clean the chain with kerosene and lube with Motul. My previous chain drive bike (Suzuki GSX1100) used to give me 30 000kms on a chain!

  2. #2
    Member
    Bike: NC700X
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Sumter SC
    Posts
    56
    OME chain is not the best ,upgrade with better equipment and smile for many more miles.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Bike: NC700x
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Asheville, NC
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    141
    I was only able to get 35,00 miles out of the original chain. The sockets needed to be changed around 32,000 miles due to a noise I figured out after 35,000 miles. Only had 8 teeth on the front sprocket. Every other tooth was missing. I do run a chain oilier that greatly helped the chain life and reduce having to always clean and lube it but it does make a mess due to running motor oil in it.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Chain life
    Bike: 2013 NC700S
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Surrey, BC (Canada)
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    958
    Quote Originally Posted by Des View Post
    I am disappointed with needing to renew my NC700X chain after only 20 000kms. I am generally a conservative rider and regularly adjust and clean the chain with kerosene and lube with Motul. My previous chain drive bike (Suzuki GSX1100) used to give me 30 000kms on a chain!
    Wonder what type of riding conditions you are in, dry and dusty? I don't clean my chain with kerosine very often. Maybe once a year. I have tried Motul and didn't love it. I found it to be a sticky chain lube. I don't think it would be ideal in dusty conditions as I can visualize sand and grit sticking to the lube sanding everything down.

    I use a Torco spinoff. It is a thick redish foam when it goes on and turns liquidy in a few minutes. I wipe it down after 5 minutes of resting. I like that the excess drips off mostly after a day so there are very few drip marks where I park. I live in a wet climate and lube the chain every 800-1000km. Currently have 28K km on it and going strong.

    Not trying to start a chain lube debate just giving you another viewpoint for you to consider in making your own decision

  5. #5
    Senior Member rippin209's Avatar
    Bike: 2012 NC700X
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    US
    Posts
    1,415
    I second what Bandit said the factory chain didn't last long for most on here. If you put allot if miles on your motorcycle look into getting a chain oiler, I got a Tutoro and have been very happy with it but there are plenty of others if you look into it. Good luck

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Bike: Nc700 abs dct
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Orange County
    Posts
    26
    just ordered a new chain , have 12,500 miles in so california

    chain and sprockets @ $250 installed

  7. #7
    Senior Member Old Can Ride's Avatar
    Bike: NC700X
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Webster, Texas
    Posts
    6,847
    I change my chain and sprockets every 12,000 miles. This way I have never failed to get home on any trip!
    Why not seize the pleasure at once? -- How often is happiness destroyed by preparation, and foolish planning? Just do it. Shut the frunk up and Ride !!!!!!!!!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Chain life
    Bike: 2015 NC700XD
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Vincennes, IN
    Posts
    118
    Adding new wrinkle to the chain life discussion: on my 95 VFR, I used only WD-40, sprayed every other tank. Real purpose of lube on an O-ring chain is to keep the o-rings pliable and keep the original lube inside. That chain went 55,000 miles, only adjusted a few times. Always ran it slightly loose as the aluminum swingers swells when hot.

    Now on a 2015 XD with no center stand. Bought a Scottoiler on the recommendation of a good friend. Found there is NO vacuum port on this bike. Disassembled a good bit to find this out. <Heavy Sigh> Don't know how deeply most folks have delved into the bowels of this beast but it ain't easy. Just getting to the air cleaner is a PITA.

    Side panels, Frunk, air cleaner box, and battery box add up to a pile, and at least 50 fasteners. The shop manual shows a vacuum line on drawing in chapter one but I never found it. Figured as long as I was in that far I'd fashion my own fix. So...

    I pulled the throttle body and drilled thru the rubber boot which connects to the intake manifold. Stuck in a plastic vacuum fitting with a 3/32 hole and glue gunned it in place. Throttle body and air x are now reinstalled with the fitting and vinyl tube hanging out the left side. The Scottoiler needs only a tiny bit of vacuum so should be invisible to the motor.

    I'll finish reassembly tomorrow and post some pics. Hoping this farkles will add life to the chain but it already has over 13,000 and P.O. didn't take best care.

    I owe other pics as well, I've added a Ron Majors rack, OEM Panniers, Warm And Safe trip heaters, and Bark Buster hand guards. Also the big adjustable wind screen. Soon as I get settled, I'm gonna figure out an Aux tank. Too much farkling, Not enough riding.

  9. #9
    Senior Member flyinfree.00's Avatar
    Bike: 2012 NC700x
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    Sep 2016
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    US
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    189
    50,000 miles with no lube is good. WD-40 is not a lube.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Bike: NC700X
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Louisiana
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    242
    Quote Originally Posted by flyinfree.00 View Post
    50,000 miles with no lube is good. WD-40 is not a lube.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    It contains a very light oil and, depending on which product you get, may contain a solvent. The main purpose is that of water displacement (so, has some chemical solution for that mixed in too, I guess), as the name implies, so you can apply lubricant after cleaning without worrying about rust forming immediately.

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