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1st Oil change

Xcellor8

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Performed my first oil change on the NCX last night. Attached is a picture of why it is important to do this oil change at 600 miles. As you can see, there was quite a few metal particles from break in, in the drain pan. Valvoline motorcycle specific 10w40 oil and a Bosch 3000 filter was used. Total cost $30 from Auto Zone
 

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I did the 600 this week also, had a few chips no where as many as you show, I used a Honda filter and Honda 10/30 full syn. It did take exactly 3.6 qts as stated in manual, thats a first for me, usually its way over filled if the specified amount was used. The filter was a B I itch to remove as others have mentioned.
 
I figured people were exaggerating when talking about how tight that filter was... until I changed mine. I think a strap type wrench would have worked best, but I honestly think anything would've mangled the filter. My 'jaw' type wrench certainly did!

trey
 
I used a strap wrench first. it just slipped on the filter. Then the jaw type pliers dented the filter so bad that they couldn't grip mine to get it off. Out came the screwdriver and hammer and off she came. I looked and could see no evidence of oil on the seal. My best guess is the factory put it on dry and torque in down. The filter I put on came off no problem, a properly lubed gasket is the key.
 
I twisted the end off one of my aluminum filter wrenches with a 3/8 ratchet. a strap didn't work nor did filter pliers, just not enough room to use either. After loosing grip on several trys with a metal filter wrench I finally tapped it on and stepped on it while standing up and holding the the bike. The torque required to turn the filter off would have tipped the bike over on top of me if I was laying on the trying to remove it. I'm certain it won't happen on the next service.
 
Do you think it would resist the power of this anti seize? :D

llave_grifa_270499_t0.jpg
 
My pliers couldn't fit between the frame and filter, I tried using them backward but couldn't get a good enough grip and i dented it in the process, I beleive the dent allowed the metal filter socket to get a good hold after I banged it on tight.
 
It is true some oilfilters are screwed on just too tightly, and the removal process could destroy it (but it is ok).
Watch out for those threads though, damaging them can be real bad and expensive to replace.

I have a torque wrench, but I just give my oilfilter a "FIRM" final twist with my dry clean hand without any tools. I have not changed oil on this moto yet.
 
I always try to use filters with a nut in the head, like this:

filtro-de-aceite-para-motor-de-gasolina.jpg


I hope to find one for my first DIY service
 
When the strap wrench slips on an oil filter, I have often had luck placing either a rubber glove or a folded sheet of sandpaper between the strap and the filter.
 
I purchased an aftermarket filter wrench from the local Honda Dealer, to use with my first oil change on the bike. It was an "Imperial" brand, 65MM / 14 flute Oil Filter Wrench - metal construction, made in the USA part # "IF-6514".

The new wrench perfectly fit the original stock filter that came on the bike and, although tough to break loose even with the 3/8" ratchet, it worked perfectly without slipping off the filter. When I attempted to use use this same wrench to torque the new filter on, it would not fit onto the filter all the way and when tightening, it kept slipping off the new Honda filter. I was installing Honda filter # 15410-MFJ-D01. I believe the filter I removed, had a different number in Japanese, but I did not write it down. Anyway, I wound up using a composite 16 flute filter wrench which, although loose, did not slip off nor deform the filter, allowing me to at least torque it to spec. Had that not worked, I would have just hand tightened it.

When it comes time to remove this filter at the next oil change, I will ensure I have a wrench that fits properly. For the time being, I plan to continue to use the recommended replacement Honda filter. Also, I doubt if I will wait till I hit 8,000 miles! I will probably change it at 3K or 3600 miles.
 
The filter was bad for me also. We had the oil filter sockets at the shop, but I do not own any myself.......yet. If Honda would not have tightened the oil filter to 1100 ft. lbs. it would not have been so bad. I will be ready for the next one. My oil came out like new too, no real shavings to speak of.
 
My memory is coming back to me.

The reason (lesson) which made me use a "firm final twist" was, once upon a time, I gave my bike (not sure which one) to a dealer to service, and it came back with a deadlocked oil filter.

In the end, I had to drain the oil, punched a through-hole across the diameter of the filter, then use a long screwdriver to unscrew the locked "He-Man" tightened oilfilter.

Since then, I have been just using my hand-tightened method when I change the oilfilter on m own. Never leaked once.
 
I use the same type of filter wrench that Little Ed mentioned. I have used that type for years with my cars and trucks, a firm tap with your palm on the ratchet will usually break them loose. Depending on how tight the filer is, removing the filter wrench (cap) from the used filter is the hardest part of the job. I also allowed my drain pan to sit for a couple of hours before carefully pouring the used oil into a container for disposal/recycling. That time allowed for all/most of the particles to fall out of suspension. It was my intention to collect as much as possible for the picture so they could be seen. Some people may "blow off" this important service, my intention with this was to verify and support Honda's 600 mile first service recommendation. My oil/filter change intervals from this point forward will be every 5000 miles.
 
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