8000 mile valve check

I'm pleased to say that at the 8000 mile service my valves were found to require no adjustment at all

That is nice! Did you request to get the valve play (Swedish translation) written down from the mechanic? I will do it when it is time for my bikes service, to make sure that they actually opened up the bike...

No but I ask and he told me. However with my usual efficencey I have forgotten what he said. it's my age you know . I do remember that it was well within tolerance

I spoke with a service tech at the dealership when we picked up my lady friend's bike and specifically asked about the rocker arm gap service interval. He said in his experience, if a bike is still performing well and still getting the expected fuel economy, the rocker gap most likely does not need adjustment. A close friend with a Honda ST1300 got the same service advice from a tech at a dealer in Camden, SC where he lives. That specific dealer services the police bikes (ST1300's) and the tech stated that they have not had to adjust the valves when servicing the police bikes. I personally did a check on my BMW every 6000 miles and found the valve clearance within spec every time.

My style of riding is probably conducive to longer service intervals, so not every rider will be able to make this claim.

I expect that I will check them every time whether they ever need adjustment or not. Some problems like valve recession will make the valves tighter, which is bad. Loose you can hear. I like to peek inside at some regular interval just to know all is good. I look for signs of abnormal heat (like bluing), abnormal wear (shiny places that shouldn't be there), any evidence of oil sludging or cross-contamination with coolant, etc. Happy it is when it all looks good and you just button it up, refresh the coolant, and peek at it again later. It gives me peace of mind and a better understanding of the bike. All bikes are different. You don't get that if you hire the job. On a bike with a wet clutch, I also remove the clutch side cover and poke around in there every 20,000 miles or so.

Unless the bike has other known problems like the valve train on a husky, water pump on a KTM, or everything under the paint on a KLR, then that is enough routine innerds-poking to keep me at ease with the bike. I guess it is my penchant for running off to untold parts of the earth that causes me to do "helicopter maintenance" on it just to know for sure that it is well. No-one knows how this one is going to age yet. We all expect it to get old without much more attention than oil and filters. But as Ronald Reagan once said "trust, but verify."

I learned with my very first bike that dismounting each bolt gives a very good knowledge of the bike, to the point that if it fails, you know 95% sure where is the fault.

My Honda VFR had 12 of its 16 valves tighter than spec when I first checked them at 16,000 miles. I checked them again at 34,000 and 53,000, and only one valve was out of spec in those 2 checks. Perhaps they came out of the factory tight or there was a settling in period.

-Payne

I just had my 600 mile service, I enquired about the 8000 mile service and the dealer said the valve check is optional and that he probably wouldn't bother doing it until 16k (he said that they've checked lots so far and not a single one was out at 8k)
Thoughts? It works out at around an extra £70 ($113) to have them checked at the 8k service. Makes me wonder if they'd still honour the warranty if something valve related failed before 16k and they hadn't been checked!

First of all, It seems a wonder that they have sold and serviced "lots of them" at the 8,000 mile interval already. Secondly it seems strange that the guidance given in the manual is "optional" for the first one. I have seen situations where the guidance for a particular operation varied by severity of service, but I have never heard a recommended interval waved off as "nah, double it if you want to."

I'd be more inclined (but unlikely) to skip the second interval if the first one was perfect than to skip the first one without knowing how the bike was assembled or how it would settle in. What if the tech who built yours was distracted that day? I would say it sounds like (here it comes)...

My bike is new and whilst it's mpg is 'ok' it's at least 15% worse than most people are getting on Fuelly - I am right down in the left tail of the distribution curve. This surprises me as I ride conservatively and I get good mileage from other bikes (57mpg from a Versys, and about 45mpg from a Triumph Rocket 3 - these are UK mpg).
So my question is - could the valve adjustments be out from the get-go and would this affect my mpg and what other symptoms might there be?
Thanks
Mike

I only got 60 mpg (US) on my first several tanks - riding conservatively. I was disappointed, as you are. Once I got the initial oil change out of the way and put a few thousand miles on it, it picked up. I am getting into the 70's now. I am not sure that Fuelly is a valid statistical sampling. I believe it is populated by people with a special interest in economy and a number of them may be using "hyper-miling" techniques. Also, the guy with the low numbers seems to me less likely to post than the guy who is doing really well. The bike is rated here at 64 mpg and that seems accurate enough for one ridden without regard for economy.

Run it in for a while and see how it does. I doubt it is the valves. Valve adjustment affects valve timing, lift, and duration, but only barely within the workable range for the motor. I haven't researched the actual lift of the NC motor, but assuming you had a specified lift of say .375" and your valves were off .002" there would not be much performance or mileage effect. Loose valves would run like a milder camshaft and get better mileage (but would have significant noise). Tight valves would act like a higher performance camshaft and get worse mileage. If they were tight to the point of negative clearance when hot, you could burn a valve and you would have a severely lumpy idle and ill-running engine (plus a nice warranty claim!).

Beemerphile said:

First of all, It seems a wonder that they have sold and serviced "lots of them" at the 8,000 mile interval already. Secondly it seems strange that the guidance given in the manual is "optional" for the first one. I have seen situations where the guidance for a particular operation varied by severity of service, but I have never heard a recommended interval waved off as "nah, double it if you want to."

I'd be more inclined (but unlikely) to skip the second interval if the first one was perfect than to skip the first one without knowing how the bike was assembled or how it would settle in. What if the tech who built yours was distracted that day? I would say it sounds like (here it comes)...

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Cheers - I'll pay the bit extra to keep things correct!

Are the valves shimmed or screw and locknut? How was it to get to and remove the valve cover? Was there enough room to easily work in there? Except for hi performance cars I haven't heard of any cars needing valve adj since who knows when, I thought this was a Honda fit engine cut in half? Couldn't they leave the hydrolics in it? Sure ain't no race bike. Just sayin...

Valves are adjusted with a screw and lock nut. There are no lifters, just roller rockers riding on the cam. I suspect after the initial valve clearance check and possible adjustment it will be pretty much trouble free. Initial break in and wear will be the the most important valve adjustment, after that wear and adjustment should be minimal.I have not done mine yet, but it looks like the cooling system will have to be drained and radiator will have to be removed or at least moved to the side for access to the valve cover removal and valve adjustment. With the hardened valve seats and valves(because of unleaded fuel) I expect minimal adjustment needs "down the road".

Thanks X..

I have a Honda FIT and was surprised it has screw adjusted valves. I haven't seen that on a car in 20 years! It was easier I guess
with the VVTEC stuff in there. My mileage has dropped off on the car and wondered if it might need the adjustment loosened?

You have to remove everything under the windshield including wiper motor and a tray. Then take off 1/2 the intake manifold
to get to the valves on the FIT. A bit of a PITA!

It's the same with the NC you have to remove the radiator? That might make me put it off a bit...

To remove the radiator and change the coolant at the same time is not a big job, the valves look like their easy to work on after that, alot easier than a 4 cyl squished into a small frame.

soggybottom said:

To remove the radiator and change the coolant at the same time is not a big job, the valves look like their easy to work on after that, alot easier than a 4 cyl squished into a small frame.

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+1. After a few valve checks on my Bandit 1250 -- a big, long stroke (tall) 4-cyl stuffed into a tight frame (which I had to drain the coolant on it too because of the placement of the hoses/radiator cap) -- the NC looks like a breeze to check. If anything, it will force me to change the coolant at least every year and keep it fresh.

I figure after a couple of 8k mile checks, I'll start pushing the check interval back to 10-12k or a little more, which is about what I've been riding per year lately. Good time to change the coolant anyway, bleed the brakes, etc, etc.

trey

treybrad said:

+1. After a few valve checks on my Bandit 1250 -- a big, long stroke (tall) 4-cyl stuffed into a tight frame (which I had to drain the coolant on it too because of the placement of the hoses/radiator cap) -- the NC looks like a breeze to check. If anything, it will force me to change the coolant at least every year and keep it fresh.

I figure after a couple of 8k mile checks, I'll start pushing the check interval back to 10-12k or a little more, which is about what I've been riding per year lately. Good time to change the coolant anyway, bleed the brakes, etc, etc.

trey

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I had an 02 Bandit 1200, great bike but a pain to adjust valves like you say but was one of my favorites, and like you say this looks about as easy as adjusting the chain with a coolant change throwd in, not to mention screw and lock nut adjusters.

I am new to the sport, but my vintage biker friends tell me one sure sign the valves are off is the spark plugs are black instead of a light brown colour or one of the pipe is more BLUE than the other(S)