Changing the chain

Hi All. I need to change my chain. I have never changed the chain nor removed the rear wheel and I expect to run into a couple of gotchas.

Here is what I have:
A service manual
The right sized wrenches.
What else should I have in hand when I start the job?

I got a D.I.D Pro-Street X-Ring 520VX2 114 Link Chain based on a post from OCR indicating that is what he uses. I notice the stock chain is a 112 link chain. Will I need to remove two links?

Is there a trick to getting the right tension on the chain when you tighten down the axle so you don't end up with silly settings on the tensioners?

Are there any rules of thumb I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance!

Don't trust the marks on the swingarm to align the axle. You can buy an alignment tool, which will make things more convenient and quicker. You can also just use a 12" ruler. Once the chain is installed, place the ruler on the rear sprocket and tweak the axle adjusters until the ruler is straight parallel with the chain. Be sure to place the ruler on the outer lip of the sprocket. If you look, you will notice that the perimeter (tooth area) is raised compared to the web of the sprocket. The ruler needs to span from rear toothed area to front toothed area for an accurate alignment. Once the axle is aligned, adjust the chain tension as necessary. You are better to be a little loose than a little tight. All new chains will "settle", "break in ", or "stretch" within the first few hundred miles.

The X uses the 114 link chain, I do not know what the DCT uses. You can use a grinder to remove any links.

Take the front sprocket off first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Makes the entire job a lot easier. That way all is in place so you can remove the engine sprocket nut. Some folks put a pine 2 X 4 between the mag openings on the rear wheel and turn the rear wheel until it comes in contact with the swing arm. The pine gives tensile strength without scratching the swing arm or the mag wheel. This stops all from turning when you take out the engine sprocket bolt. "Do not put the bike into gear thinking this will top the wheel and engine from tuning." A few folks have torn up a few clutch plates over the years doing that. There are other ways of doing this operation, but this is the backyard cheap method.

When removing the rear sprocket from the rear wheel, I suggest laying the entire rear wheel assembly on a soft grassy spot in your yard. This way nothing gets scratched when you start putting torque on the wheel sprocket bolts. If the assembly moves in the dirt grassy area nothing gets scratched.

As to aligning the rear wheel the method described by Lou Wambsganss works well. Yes, there are a number of ways to handle this operation also.

You can use your dominant eye to align the chain. With the chain guard out of the way "sight" along one side of the chain from behind. You can easily see if the chain is curved one way or the other or straight. It's kind of like using the sights on a gun barrel. I use a chain breaker/riveter tool to take the chain apart and stake the new master link in place.

Like OCR I use a piece of broom stick in the rear wheel to loosen the drive or engine sprocket nut and and also to put the final torque on the sprocket nuts.

I've done it twice now, so here are reflections of an amateur.

- yes on the chain alignment tool. cheap and very useful
- 40lbs torque on front sprocket bolt, 80lbs on the five rear (see manual)
- make sure the rear disk brake engages to the stop on the swing arm that keeps the clamp from rotating forward or BACKWARD. (easy to miss that since the brake clamp just falls off chaotically when you remove the rear wheel).
- tension. I don't start adjusting that until the chain and sprockets are back on and working. It's a slow process: measure, adjust, repeat. I like 3.5 to 4.0 centimeters play (that's spec). I read that it's better for it to be too loose than too tight. (just don't remember where I read that!)

- use a RIVET link, not a clip link. You will have to order the rivet link separately.

- get the cheapo chain breaking kit from CycleGear. It's the bare minimum for this kind of work, but I couldn't do it without it!

I changed front/rear sprockets and chain at the same time. First thing I did was use a 2x4 in the spokes to hold the wheel and loosened the front sprocket bolt and the rear sprocket bolts.
Loosened both chain adjusters and rear axle to get slack in the chain.
Used the MotionPro chain breaker/riveter to break the old chain.
Replaced front sprocket and hand tightened.
Removed rear wheel and replaced sprocket. Tightened bolts in a cross pattern as tight as I could get with the wheel off the bike.
Installed rear wheel. Make sure rear caliper is aligned properly with the nub on the swing arm.
Install new chain and use MotionPro chain riveter. This is the only part with ambiguity. I pushed on the plate on steps until it felt a little sticky when wiggling the joints. My thought was it would loosen up a touch after running a while and that seemed to work. Something I didn’t understand when first doing this is the pushing on of the plate sets the tension. I thought staking the rivet would create the tension but it doesn’t. It just holds the plate on.
With chain now on I torqued to spec the front and rear sprockets again using a 2x4 in the spokes and the rear bolts in a cross pattern.
Aligned and adjusted chain using MotionPro chain alignment tool and an old screwdriver jammed in between the chain and rear sprocket. Check adjust, check adjust until I have it right.

I believe it is best to change both sprockets along with the install of a new chain........
As far as chain alignment goes I have used one of the laser chain alignment tools for many years.....Profi Laser DOT Chain & Belt Alignment Tool - BikeBandit.com very fast and easy to use ....always correct.
While not as cheap as some tools it has lasted many years and on many bikes.....

I didn't see in DanH's posting that he was changing his sprockets. Maybe you guys gave him TOO much information.

pismocycleguy said:

I didn't see in DanH's posting that he was changing his sprockets. Maybe you guys gave him TOO much information.

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Someone, including me, will need it eventually and we will have it here. More info is better than too little in my experience.

pismocycleguy said:

I didn't see in DanH's posting that he was changing his sprockets. Maybe you guys gave him TOO much information.

Click to expand...

Indeed! You care correct, I see after re-reading the post.
Some think it a good idea to do all three at once... two sprockets and the chain.
The sprockets are relatively cheap compared to the chain, so it seems worth it.

HERE ($40) is the chain breaker tool I used... found it at Cycle Gear. It's the bare minimum, but you really can't change the chain or put on the rivet link without a chain breaking tool.

StratTuner said:

Indeed! You care correct, I see after re-reading the post.
Some think it a good idea to do all three at once... two sprockets and the chain.
The sprockets are relatively cheap compared to the chain, so it seems worth it.

HERE ($40) is the chain breaker tool I used... found it at Cycle Gear. It's the bare minimum, but you really can't change the chain or put on the rivet link without a chain breaking tool.

Click to expand...

You are correct also, best to change all 3 items at the same time.
How does that CycleGear breaker/riveter work? Easily, or does it take a lot of fussing and swearing?

anyone know what diagram the front sprocket is on?

pismocycleguy said:

You are correct also, best to change all 3 items at the same time.
How does that CycleGear breaker/riveter work? Easily, or does it take a lot of fussing and swearing?

Click to expand...

I've used the Stockton tool several times and it worked fine each time. I did make sure to save the instructions as you have to configure it with several small parts depending on whether breaking or staking. I bought it on sale ..... Well worth the money.

DanH said:

anyone know what diagram the front sprocket is on?

Click to expand...

Transmission, part 18.

I have the motion chain brake tool. If I had seen the ad in Cycle Gear this month before I bought my motion, I, like dduelin, would also have the Stockton tool. Could not see much of any difference in the two, except the price.

Ok, I'm a total noob when it comes to chain/sprocket maintenance and replacement...I've been on shaft drive motorcycle since 1985 (!). I understand the adjustment procedure but with almost 5,000 miles on my bike I still haven't found it necessary to do any adjustments. Is that normal? Most of my riding is on highways, if that makes any difference.

Second, when do I know to replace the sprockets? Are they usually replaced in pairs (F/R)? I'm guessing when sprockets are replaced you also replace the chain? Is is possible to purchase a chain of the correct length so you don't have to modify it by cutting links and then riveting in new ones? How does that riveting process actually work?

Reading this and other threads make it seem to me that chain maintenance can be a bit of work....and can have some serious consequences if not done correctly..

Third and lastly...what is the probability of completing say, 15,000 miles safely on a single set of sprockets and a single chain? Any recommended manufactures that anyone would suggest?

TIA

I have not needed to adjust my chain for the last 5000 mikes either. Just continue to check it but don't fret over it. I think setting it too tight will cause way more problems and need for frequent adjustments than leaving it on the medium to loose side if spec.

I intend to run mine at least 15000 miles unless there are indications to the contrary.

I'll take a stab at answer your questions......
Generally in the first 1,500 miles the chain will need adjusting. That is from the initial stretch. After that it can go a long time before needing adjusting again. Think I didn't have to adjust again until I change tires. I changed mine around 10k because it was noisy. Seems that a lot of us have changed around 10k. Sprockets wear by getting a saw tooth pattern on the teeth. I've seen people, especially off road riders, use a sprocket until the teeth get so thin they break. The chain manufactures and I think the Honda manual recommends changing both sprockets and the chain as a set. As Strat said the sprockets aren't that expensive. Around $40 for both. I went to sprocketcenter.com, entered in the bike, and bought a complete set that came with chain at correct length, clip and rivet master links and both sprockets. I believe several people have reported getting around 20k out of the replacement chain. There are several good brands of chain/sprockets and some people prefer one brand over another. I bought, and again I believe several have also bought, DID 520 VX2 series X'ring Chain and JT steel sprockets. Both are considered standard good quality manufacturers.

Like anything there are pluses and minuses to chains, belts, or shaft drives.

Just checked out sproket center,good prices.thanks for the info bamamate.

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After ~150,000 miles on shafties I learned an expensive lesson with chains and sprockets. I replaced the original chain on my 700X at 8,000 miles as it was kinking badly. I over-cleaned it from new and ruined the O rings with harsh cleaners and a stiff brush. I tried to keep the chain new-looking and cleaned it almost weekly. It started kinking at 4,000 miles. The sprockets looked very good with barely discernible wear at 8K so I bought a cheap $80 chain and put it on the old sprockets ignoring good advice to replace the chain and sprockets at the same time. IIRC at about 16,000-17,000 miles I was buying another chain and the sprockets were badly worn from the new chain. I bit the bullet and bought the good DID VX chain OCR recommended and new sprockets. Now at 26,000 miles the chain and sprockets have no discernible wear and have not required the frequent adjustment the cheap chains needed. No kinks and no tight spots when I check the chain slack. I think I will easily get 15,000 miles and probably much more with the high quality DID chain.