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Finke Desert Race 2014

Yamezz

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I've recently returned from a trip on the NC700S to watch the Finke Desert Race, some 1,500-odd kilometres from home. The ride took me through the Flinders Ranges and outback Australia on some great roads. On the trip with me was Leigh in his brand new Ford Ranger, and Leigh's brother Adam with his two kids in the old Toyota Coaster bus. I apologise in advance for being a little light on photos in some sections - with Leigh as the commander of the trip it was flat out, with little time to stop and soak it all in. Definitely not my style of trip, but was good to tag along none-the-less.

The route is roughly marked in red over the top of this map I found on the wall of the Mt Dare pub.
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Having travelled these roads before, I knew it was unwise to go without protection from the rocks.
So after swapping my 7,000km old Shinko 705 for a new one at Leigh's workshop...
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I set to work making a stone guard from 1.6mm stainless sheet.

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Despite all of us leaving from the same town south of Adelaide, we all left at different times and took different routes to get to our night one camp site. Adam had selected a road in the southern Flinders Ranges and said we'd find him and the kids camped in one of the creeks along that road. He left at 7am and went north through the city of Adelaide and up through the Clare Valley wine district. Given my dislike of cities borders on detest, I headed north through the Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley, stopping at Mt Barker to buy a new GoPro mount for my new helmet. From the Barossa I continued north through 24-Hour-Trial country into the mid north region. I was fortunate to have no rain, despite being accompanied by dark skies all day.

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Unfortunately this was the only photo I took on day 1. Poor light and my desire to find Adam's camp site in the daylight made me press on, especially since I'd lost an hour trying to find a GoPro mount in Mt Barker. Leaving home at 10am didn't help either.

After 520km for the day I stumbled on to Adam's camp just on twilight. I'd been putting out calls for him on the UHF, and although he could hear me, there was something wrong with the transmit side of his radio.

In typical Leigh style, he left home at 10pm that night, arriving into camp at 3:30am...
 
Despite arriving at 3:30am, Leigh was up at 7 and wanting to get moving. So without time for breakfast, I set about breaking camp, forgetting to take a photo of the top spot we'd camped in. On the way back to the road I did manage a snap of the surrounding area though.

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From camp just out of Hawker, we made our way past Wilpena (not stopping for a look), up to Blinman (turning off just before the town, so no look around Blinman) and headed out on a few tracks in the Flinders.

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The roads in the Flinders are fantastic to ride. Some of the most scenic around.

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The gorges are... well... gorgeous.

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We then dropped out of the eastern side of the Ranges and on to the Frome Downs road, winding our way north.


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I had the GoPro on for this section; set to take a photo every 30 seconds. It's a shame the day was so overcast, as the photos don't do the scenery justice.

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Great photos. Makes me want to jump in my jeep and hit some back roads.

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The rest of the day was spent heading north to Balcanoona, then west through the Aboriginal settlement of Nepabunna to refuel at Copley. From there it was north, straight through Lyndhurst without stopping and on to camp in a creek bed beside a derelict bridge from the old Ghan railway, which we would follow north all the way to Alice Springs.

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The next morning we continued north through Marree, again without stopping and headed west along the Oodnadatta Track.

The track was in excellent condition on some sections.


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Continuing west from Marree, we went through the Dog Fence, the world's longest fence. Not quite as long as it used to be, it's now 5,614km. Further on we hit upon the edge of Lake Eyre, a massive, usually dry salt lake, sitting below sea level.

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I had enough time to pull my helmet off, take a photo and inhale a muesli bar before I set off in chase of Leigh and Adam again. By now, this rate of sightseeing was wearing thin.

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As we continued to follow the old railway we saw ruins of old sidings.

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The next stop was Coward Springs, for the first bath in a few days. It's an artesian bore that flow warm water to the surface under pressure. After about 6 minutes in the spring (OK it may have been more, but it really didn't feel like it), we walked back to the vehicles, where lucky for me, Adam noticed his awning was becoming detached from the side of the bus. That meant while he and Leigh fixed it I had time to actually dry off and get back into my riding gear before having to race off in pursuit.

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We were now within Anna Creek Station, which at 6 million acres is the world's largest cattle property and the size of New Hampshire

William Creek was next; population 6. The others grabbed a drink at the pub while I filled up with fuel and stuffed some food down my gullet.

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From William Creek it was out onto a stretch of freshly graded road that made me grumble at the road quality back home.

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How is it, in the middle of nowhere, they can grade a road so flat and smooth, yet when they build bitumen roads round home you pretty much need four wheel drive?

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Overnight stop was beside the Neales River, where the 580 metre Algebuckina bridge carried the old Ghan railway.


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In the morning we continued north up the Ooodnadatta Track...

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...to the township of Oodnadatta itself and the iconic Pink Roadhouse, which had had a new paint job since I was there last.

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A strawberry milk for me, and some fuel for the bike.
Oodnadatta is the big smoke in these parts, with a population of 150 and claims the title of the driest town in the driest state on the driest continent. The canoes for hire out the front don't get much use! The highest recorded temperature is over 50C (123F).
Just in the corner of this photo is one of two huge KTM adventure bikes, with a massive load of clobber. I can't believe the amount of stuff some people go adventure touring with. These guys probably looked at my bike and assumed all my gear was being carried in the ute or the bus, but apart from a couple of tins of food in Adam's bus, everything else I needed for the trip was in and on the bike.
We were to encounter these 50-something year old KTM pilots, who were also on their way to Finke, further up the road after they'd finished their cooked breakfast.

The road out of Oodnadatta to Dalhousie was great to begin with, but quickly got a little more tricky.

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When it wasn't sandy, the road was dusty and rocky, and with Adam setting the pace, we were doing 85-90km/h. I was bringing up the rear, trying to stay out of Leigh's dust, when with no warning whatsoever, one of the clockheads on a KTM from the roadhouse flew past me to my right, showering the bike and me in rocks and dust. I was fuming - what an arsehole. The polite thing to do would be to gently pull alongside, see that I'd acknowledged him, then giving me a wide berth make a safe pass. I called ahead to Leigh on the UHF to warn him. Leigh at least knew he was coming, but despite Leigh making the 'slow down' sign with his hand out the window, this clockhead passed Leigh in the same manner, showering Leigh's 10-day old car in dust and rocks. Leigh passed the message on to Adam, who promptly made his bus as wide as he could and made the KTM clockhead work to get past.

20 minutes up the road we all pulled over and as we were regrouping the second of the KTMs came up and Leigh pulled him to a halt, asked if he was with the first bloke and told him to tell his mate that he'll wind up getting punched out if he continues to ride like that. KTM #2 sheepishly took off, promising to let his mate know his actions weren't appreciated.
 
Next stop was the Pedirka railway siding ruins.

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I wandered over for a look and I'm pretty sure Leigh would have just driven by if it wasn't for Adam taking it easy in the bus over the rocky road, which meant we waited a couple of minutes for him.

It would have been a desolate overnight stop for passengers in the day.

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The road continued on toward the Dalhousie station ruins, through gibber country.

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We pulled up at the Dalhousie ruins and waited for Adam to arrive in the bus.

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It's hard to imagine anyone scratching out a living out here, let alone in the 1800s/early 1900s

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Thought I'd better get a photo of myself at some stage on the trip.

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After a quick look around the ruins...

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we were off again to Dalhousie Springs, where the original plan was to meet another couple of guys and stay the night at the campground.

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Some of us managed a reasonable length swim in the bath-like 40 degree water. It's hard to imagine that back in 1925 the springs were bursting out of the ground at the rate of 23,000 litres a second! I pump fluids for a job, and that rate is phenomenal.

Of course the plan changed, and it was decided to press on to Mt Dare, for fuel for me and a drink for the others.

The Dalhousie-Mt Dare road was what I was dreading. Leaving Dalhousie Springs starts off nice...

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...but quickly turns into an awful road.

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The corrugations were terrible in places.

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The pictures don't do it justice - this was a difficult road to navigate with limited suspension travel with woefully soft springs and very little ground clearance. It was for precisely this road that I built the stone guard, and the noise coming off it on this stretch was like a xylophone.

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No problem on a proper dirt bike.

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The road got slightly better for the last few kilometres into Mt Dare

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We pulled up for fuel and drinks and a bit of a stretch of the legs.

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The bloke running the shop/hotel reckoned he didn't get many road bikes into Mt Dare.
 
Holy Cow - that is one huge expanse of nothingness...your definition of 'road' is very different to mine - I'd call the best of those 'tracks' :p

That is a great trip and pictures - love the 'no motorcycle' sign in a place that hardly gets any humans! ;) ....and a 5,000 km fence?! :eek:

Keep 'em coming...:cool:
 
Glad you're enjoying it Nelmo. Sorry it's taking a while...

Now the roads in and out of Mt Dare were awful, as this bloke can attest to.

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It was going to be a slow trip out of there for this guy. There's a photo album in the pub with other vehicles in similar predicaments.

After stopping at Mt Dare, we headed further toward Finke to find a creek bed to camp beside, crossing the border into the Northern Territory.

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It was along this road out of Mt Dare that I had a massive deflection from the rear suspension. Fortunately I was standing up as the rear hit a square edge, bottomed out and kicked back up and out to the side. I've no problem with it happening on a dirt bike, but it was a bit more of a handfull on a 215kg behemoth.

We made camp and watched the sun go down.

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We were off early again the next morning, heading into the aboriginal settlement of Finke. The road was in much better condition. Mainly hard packed to begin with, but with the odd softer bit.

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Adam's tyres were pretty suspect before he left, but they were disintegrating further as we pressed on. A flat front held us up for a bit and Leigh expressed his concern with the state of one of the rear tyres, especially since Adam only had the one spare.

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Closer to Finke the road got very sandy.

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Despite his lack of spare tyres, Adam had worked out it was much smoother in the bus travelling at 100km/h over the sandy corrugations, and that he got bigger air time when jumping the bus off crests! So with Adam setting the pace through the sweeping sandy corners, it was a high speed run into Finke, with only the odd gate slowing us down.


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We stopped for a few minutes in Finke, the namesake and halfway point for the Finke Desert Race that we'd come to see.

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Finke is about 230km south of Alice Springs and sits on the derelict Ghan railway line we'd been following since south of Marree. Today was Friday, and we had a booking at a caravan park in Alice Springs, where we'd spend the night at the public scrutineering of all the race vehicles. Saturday is prologue (qualifying) day, with all the competitors racing a lap of the buggy track. Sunday, race day 1, the competitors race from Alice Springs to Finke along the old railway service track. They camp the night in Finke, then race back to Alice Springs the following day.

After a quick drive through the town of Finke, we headed north, through the dry Finke River, reportedly the oldest river in the world, and along the old railway, which parallels the race track all the way to Alice.


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