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Need to lube clutch lever pivot

MZ5

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It squeaks when I release it, and I want it to be quiet. So, I have 2 questions:
1) Do you use grease, or a light oil, or a dry lube?
2) Do you have to take the whole lever and cable apart & off, or do you have a tricky way to get the right lube to the right spot with everything (or most everything?) still assembled?

Thanks!
 
I've of the opinion that anything greasy will attract dust/grit. Been using a graphite/solvent combo for last decade. The solvent carries the graphite everywhere then evaporates out. Messy as all get out but works great. The brand name has long since left the bottle.
 
I also use graphite for points like this that are exposed to the elements, don't necessarily require corrosion protection, and are not under extreme pressure. I use a PAI Dry-Moly spray, but you can buy something similar at most auto parts or motorcycle shops.
 
Thanks!
I have powdered graphite, a powdered graphite/moly/something else mix, and the spray lock lube that uses a solvent carrier to get graphite into small spaces. I'll try the latter first. You guys find that spraying it on from the top side of the pivot 'bolt' is effective?
 
I use silicone grease. I think it is what the SM recommends but if it didn't that's what I use. You really need to take the lever off to do the job right. Clean the pivot bolt and the hole in the lever then remove the cable end from the lever to clean it as well. Sometimes the bolt needs replacing because the chrome plating is galled. Not likely with our low mileage NCs but by fully cleaning and lubing it yours will never gall. Cables break there at the end because gummed up cable ends bend the cable slightly each time the clutch is used and the end of the cable fatigues over time and breaks off. Assemble with a minimum of grease. This is something I do each brake fluid change around 12,000 miles.

Do not lubricate the cable itself. Honda uses cables with Teflon or some coating on the inside of the cable and it does fine left dry.
 
I use silicone grease. I think it is what the SM recommends but if it didn't that's what I use. You really need to take the lever off to do the job right. Clean the pivot bolt and the hole in the lever then remove the cable end from the lever to clean it as well. Sometimes the bolt needs replacing because the chrome plating is galled. Not likely with our low mileage NCs but by fully cleaning and lubing it yours will never gall. Cables break there at the end because gummed up cable ends bend the cable slightly each time the clutch is used and the end of the cable fatigues over time and breaks off. Assemble with a minimum of grease. This is something I do each brake fluid change around 12,000 miles.

Do not lubricate the cable itself. Honda uses cables with Teflon or some coating on the inside of the cable and it does fine left dry.

I tend to agree with the use of Silicone grease. It does not attack the plastic bits of the clutch switch and imho grease also prevents the ingress of water better than a powdered lubricant.
 
I'll mess with it tomorrow evening, if it's not 'too hot' out. :)
I didn't see a recommendation in the FSM for this spot, but I only looked in one spot. Thanks!
 
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