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Oil Change, Valve Clearance Adjustment, and - Coolant change?

Daniszeman

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Hey guys, just did the first 8,000 mile service to the bike by myself. Was pretty nice, did the oil change first - never was able to do a full oil change before (had to use the screwdriver trick) but it seemed to go very well. I could not figure out how to ever use the strap wrenches, they seemed to have no grip at all. Did a couple of test drives, no problem. Then did the valve clearance adjustment by moving the radiator out of the way (not removing it), scraped my knuckles a bit, five out of the eight valves were in spec (7 out of the 8 technically were) so I readjusted them and learned that a quarter turn of those little screws is quite a bit of of a difference. Put everything back together except the lower fairing, so I can watch for leaks or anything weird.

Then, because I lost some radiation fluid/coolant during the valve check, I filled up the reserve to the max line (previously at minimum line) and believed that the vacuum pressure of how the radiator and everything works it would suck some back into the system - but after a few test drives, the coolant level has not changed in the reserve tank. The high temp light has not turned on during riding. I also wanted to flush the coolant but I cannot find any drain plug for it.

So my questions are: Where is that little drain plug for the coolant? Instead of the drain plug, it just the bottom radiator hose on the port side of the bike? Why hasn't the coolant level changed even though quite a bit got drained when moving the radiator out of the way? The manual states to not remove the radiator cap (black with a tapper screw in it) and instead fill up from the reserve tank - should I attempt to remove the radiator cap and refill/check instead from the reserve?

Thanks guys :)
 
I could not figure out how to ever use the strap wrenches, they seemed to have no grip at all.

Try folding a small sheet of 80 - 100 grit sandpaper and placing it between the strap wrench and the filter.

The manual states to not remove the radiator cap (black with a tapper screw in it) and instead fill up from the reserve tank - should I attempt to remove the radiator cap and refill/check instead from the reserve?

That is the "normal" process if the system has not been opened. If the system has been opened, you need to remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator (cold) to the brim, replace the cap, and fill the expansion tank to the full mark.
 
...you need to remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator (cold) to the brim, replace the cap, and fill the expansion tank to the full mark.

Is it safe to remove the radiator cap and just look in to see if it's full? Top it off as you described with coolant?
 
How often do we need to check the valve clearance. I am new to bikes and have never done it before? Is it difficult?

Check them at 8k miles initially. Once I hit the 8k mark *probably won't be till next season* I will do up a how to video. And from what I've seen, it's not terribly difficult. If you are not comfortable with taking the top end of the motor apart I would not recommend doing it. You will need a feeler gauge and know how to set TDC with a timing mark to adjust the valves.
 
Good thing you didn't have any more radiation fuild leak the Department of Nuclear Energy was thinking of visiting you. Then again you could be on something. The first nuclear powered motorcycle, never needs gas and leaves all riders sterile!
 
Good thing you didn't have any more radiation fuild leak the Department of Nuclear Energy was thinking of visiting you. Then again you could be on something. The first nuclear powered motorcycle, never needs gas and leaves all riders sterile!

Probably for the best give how many guys have had to give up the bike when they have kids...
 
I did my valve adjustment yesterday. Simple and quick. Also took the forks off for Gold Valve installation, and drained the coolant. I will also change the oil and filter, but not until AFTER I've reassembled the engine and at least let it idle up to operating temp (maybe I'll ride it a few miles) from the valve check. The ideal here is that there WILL have been at least a few tiny bits of 'stuff' get in in consequence of taking everything apart and doing the check. So, doing the oil change afterwards gives the old oil a chance to flush all that gunk away rather than 'contaminating' (not talking about the OP's radiation fluid, LOL!) the new/fresh oil.
 
The idea here is that there WILL have been at least a few tiny bits of 'stuff' get in in consequence of taking everything apart and doing the check. So, doing the oil change afterwards gives the old oil a chance to flush all that gunk away rather than 'contaminating' (not talking about the OP's radiation fluid, LOL!) the new/fresh oil.

Not a bad idea. Most are probably aware, but this brings up a point I'd emphasize to those just getting started in "deeper" maintenance - that is that it is always a good idea to clean a machine before you begin internal maintenance. Whether it is as simple as cleaning around the oil filler before you check or add oil, or blowing out a spark plug hole before you remove a spark plug. Clearly, a valve cover removal opens enough of the engine to the outside world that care should be taken to prevent the ingress of contamination. You wouldn't want to remove the valve cover and have a pocket of sand that was setting on top of the head fall down into the valve area.

Another point (unrelated to this one) is to have a clean catch field under the motorcycle. I normally use a flat piece of cardboard (for easy clean-up) with a clean (but old "wife won't beat me") towel spread out flat on top of it. The reason being that the small part you drop will be less likely to take a bounce or roll off into that place in your garage that only the spiders know about.
 
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