Tire repair and brake disc removal and reinstallation

Just as the title states: I had some air leaks occurring in the rear tire. It'd lose about 2 ~ 3 psi per day. Looked and looked for a nail/screw/etc. but no go. Used soap/water solution and found the leak on several spots on the left side bead. Dismounted the tire from the rim, cleaned rim with a wire brush as it had a bunch of sticky/hard (beige in color) gunk in several spots around the rim (bead) seal areas. In the process, I had to remove the brake disc when breaking the bead to avoid damage. The service manual calls for replacing the brake disc bolts with new ones. I don't really think that's necessary though. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I did notice that the bolt threads had red locktite stuff on 'em. For those that have removed the brake disc and reinstalled, 1. Did you reuse the bolts or buy new ones 2. Did you use thread lock and then go about tightening them in a criss-cross pattern and in multiple steps?

Thanks for your help in advance.

I'd say use your best judgement when it comes to the brake bolts. If you see no visual issues with them, I'd reuse them. I would reapply red thread locker when putting them back in.

Prior discussions here explained the "red" thread locker seen on the OEM bolts is not a permanent thread locker like red Loctite. You probably want a removable variety like 243, not a stud locker like 271.

Greg

Agree. "Red is not red" in threadlocker unless you are talking about Locktite brand. More importantly, as far as replacing the bolts, the only bolts front or rear that are called out for replacement each time are the ALOC bolts used to hold the brake discs to the wheels - NOT the bolts that hold the calipers to the fork legs or rear caliper bracket. Further, the rear caliper does not have to be removed from the caliper bracket in order to R&R the rear tire.

I have never used threadlocker on brake caliper bolts, nor is it recommended in the Service Manual. Dry with 22 ft-lb. of torque on the front calipers (page 17-24) and leave the rear attached. Locktite stays in the drawer.

Never mind the statement in red - Beemer is an idiot.

Thanks guys. Just to clarify, I did remove the rear wheel brake disc as I didn't want to chance damaging it in the process of using my bead breaker and spoon.

I have not touched the rear caliper (which is still in place) and the rear wheel simply and gently slides out or in place when guided properly. Right now I have tightened down the bolts on the disc in a criss cross pattern and in 3 steps, as stated in the manual but haven't used 243 thread locker. Should I remove the bolts and use the blue thread locker?

Thanks again.

My service manual, front brake caliper for ABS models, says "Replace the front brake caliper mounting bolts and sealing washers with new ones."

duk2n said:

My service manual, front brake caliper for ABS models, says "Replace the front brake caliper mounting bolts and sealing washers with new ones."

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I stand corrected. I read it wrong. I am going to die in a fiery crash because mine have been re-used as stated three times already. I don't see a sealing washer though.

I'm not sure where you came up with using red thread locker on caliper bolts?

I just assumed when he said there was red stuff on the brake rotor bolts, that it was red thread locker. Thanks for clearing that up though, and don't use it on the caliper bolts.

I haven't had the NC's front caliper off but once so far and I had no problem reusing the front brake caliper bolts again with a dab of Blue Loctite. As stated before - Honda's red thread locker is a removable one and comparable to Loctite Blue. My ST1300 has the same recommendation to replace each time and I reuse the brake caliper bolts two or three times before replacing with new. Your actions are yours alone and I can't recommend this for anyone but myself.

To answer the Q about cross tightening - yes I would tighten in a criss cross sequence of two or three progressive torque settings if I had to R & R the brake disc.

Okay guys, I guess I'll remove the disc bolts in the criss/cross pattern, apply blue locktite and repeat and rinse. I think I'm good to go.

Thanks for your time and inputs.

Beemerphile said:

I stand corrected. I read it wrong. I am going to die in a fiery crash because mine have been re-used as stated three times already. I don't see a sealing washer though.

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I think it refers to the brake hose sealing washers. And for the caliper bolts I believe we are safe reusing them two or three times or even more, but cleaning the OEM thread locker and using a drop of Loctite 243 is not going to hurt

Beemerphile said:

Locktite stays in the drawer.

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Someone told me it's a good idea to keep the Loctite in the refrigerator. It helps to preserve a so expensive "consumable" usable some months after its expiration date.

duk2n said:

Someone told me it's a good idea to keep the Loctite in the refrigerator. It helps to preserve a so expensive "consumable" usable some months after its expiration date.

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Uh, I guess I meant the salad drawer. I can't even do that right. Getting old is not for sissies.

I'm not around my service manual or bike at the moment and I need a measurement. Can someone find me the diameter of the front brake disc on the manual version? Pretty Please! Thanks!

Josh H said:

I'm not around my service manual or bike at the moment and I need a measurement. Can someone find me the diameter of the front brake disc on the manual version? Pretty Please! Thanks!

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320mm.

How did you post without Internet access?

Mike Cash said:

How did you post without Internet access?

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Dang it! I looked up the owners manual but for some reason didn't think to look up the actual thing I was looking for. Thanks!

Josh H said:

Dang it! I looked up the owners manual but for some reason didn't think to look up the actual thing I was looking for. Thanks!

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No problem. I just happened to remember seeing the brake size on Wikipedia last month....when I accessed it to double-check tire size before buying a new front.

ron700 said:

Just as the title states: I had some air leaks occurring in the rear tire. It'd lose about 2 ~ 3 psi per day. Looked and looked for a nail/screw/etc. but no go. Used soap/water solution and found the leak on several spots on the left side bead.
Thanks for your help in advance.

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How much soap do you use to make the soapy solution? What ratio of liquid soap to water? Teaspoonful added to how much water? A pint, a quart, ?
Thanks

pismocycleguy said:

How much soap do you use to make the soapy solution? What ratio of liquid soap to water? Teaspoonful added to how much water? A pint, a quart, ?
Thanks

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I have found that dish washer soup works the best at about a 50/50 mixture, although on off road tires I have used it straight 100%. Dish washer soup will also kill bee's if they get into the eves of your home.

Haven't done any moto tires yet, but I've found about 1:5 soapy water in a spray bottle is great for finding air leaks on MTB tires, compressed air lines, etc. Paintbrush works second best. Really slow leaks need straight soap. Anywhere that sells plumbing tools has fluorescent dyed soap for leak detection on low pressure gas lines that works great on hard to find leaks, usually overkill though.