Changing front brake pad and brake oil: help!

Hi all!
My front brake pad is finished... I've bought a new original Honda pad and a bottle of DOT4 oil.
Can you please help me to understand te best way to change the pad and oil on out NC?
I've never had an ABS-Combined motorcyle...

Thanks!

The pads are easy. It's just a pin (or two) holding them in. The fluid exchange I think has to be done by Honda in order to properly bleed the abs module. I would give your local dealership a call when they open for proper advise.

I'm only talking from having read the service manual, not needed to do on mine yet. The job looks very straightforward and not much different from separate brake circuits - the main thing is that the front calliper has three pots, one worked by the pedal (centre bleed valve if I remember right) so you need to bleed both circuits on the front calliper. I would recommend getting the manual before attempting the job though - there are some specific points of advice and a long list of descriptions, torque settings etc.

Cheers

Chris

You should be a long way from having to change the brake fluid. Why are you doing this with a pad change?

Remove two bolts that hold brake to rotor. Remove brake, put in pads, reinstall brake.

Use Dot 4. When first purchased bike brake fluid was clear, then got brown, and then around 12,000 miles it is black. Reason is Condensation. Every time you hit brakes, rotor and pads get hot. As they cool condensation (water) in fluid. Motorcycle brake parts are aluminum to keep weight down. Water corrodes these aluminum parts, so water removal is required.

Here is a easy way to do the change brake fluid without bleeding the brakes. Go to drug store and purchase an ear syringe. Cover every thing on bike with protection first. A single drop of brake fluid will destroy a paint job. Remove reservoir cover on handlebar. Depress syringe, place pointed end into brake fluid, then let the syringe suck out the break fluid. It is important you do not touch brake levers. Empty old brake fluid out of syringe. Use syringe to put in new fluid slowly as not to spill anything. Replace cover. This way you have replaced most of brake fluid getting rid of most water content (the purpose of changing the fluid fulfilled). Repeat process on rear.

If you just have to get 100% of the fluid out of the brake lines, some people do, buy a hand - mighty vac - at WalMart. It will give detailed instructions. Or use the old pump the lever and hold method, it works to, just slow.

Dot 3 and Dot 4 do mix if in a pinch. However, never mix Dot 5 with either.

Honda's ABS system does not require special tools or dealer-only procedures to replace pads and flush the system including the module but the linked brakes have a particular sequence to follow when flushing. I don't know it as I have non linked brakes on my NC but it is in my service manual. A Honda service manual is a good investment for us do-it-yourselfers especially with brakes and other critical items.

PS. I looked at my bike and the manual and both non ABS and ABS bikes have the same threaded pin that holds the pads in the caliper. With an 8 mm wrench or socket remove the pin and the brake pads drop out.

I'm with Lee, why to change the brake fluid if this is your first pad replacement?

Thanks guys for help.
I'm not sure I really want to change teh brake oil but... how many years/km can the brake oil considered fully efficency?

Markino said:

how many years/km can the brake oil considered fully efficency?

Click to expand...

My owner's manual says to inspect it every 8,000 miles / 12,000 km, and to change it every 2 years

In the USA it's a 12,000 mile replacement schedule, fluid that is.

Should we change back to the Honda brake pads, or there is an alternative (supposing cheaper)?
What is part number, anyone?

My experience with Ferodo pads was that they really brake good, but they also killed my disc.

Another good method is to find tubing that fits the bleed valve, attach it and have it hang down into a bottle containing new brake fluid. *make sure the tubing is below the level of the fluid otherwise you suck up air*. Then open the valve and just keep adding fluid to the reservoir and pumping the brakes until the fluid has no more bubbles or if you're trying to change the fluid completely, until the fluid comes out clean, like new...

Thanks guy, for your help!
I think I'll change the oil on the next pad change or next year.

BTW, brake fluid is SUPER CORROSIVE! Make sure you cover up all the bike with thick cloth and be very careful!

I had a shuddering when braking before coming to a stop and it turned out my front pads were glazed. Sanding them with 80 grit sandpaper did the trick and they work just fine now. However, I discovered there was not enough room to remove the caliper the way I have done with other bikes. Instead I removed 4 of the rotor mounting bolts and loosened the 5th bolt enough to rotate the rotor away from the caliper. This worked fine, but different from what I am used to... Does anyone have a shop manual for the "official" procedure for removing the front caliper and pads?

TwoSlow said:

I had a shuddering when braking before coming to a stop and it turned out my front pads were glazed. Sanding them with 80 grit sandpaper did the trick and they work just fine now. However, I discovered there was not enough room to remove the caliper the way I have done with other bikes. Instead I removed 4 of the rotor mounting bolts and loosened the 5th bolt enough to rotate the rotor away from the caliper. This worked fine, but different from what I am used to... Does anyone have a shop manual for the "official" procedure for removing the front caliper and pads?

Click to expand...

Not necessary. Remove the two bolts (12mm heads) holding the caliper to the fork leg. Then rock the caliper towards you and then towards the wheel a couple of times to spread the pads a bit. Then you can pull it radially away from the wheel and tilt it towards you at the end to withdraw it. I just did this operation today and have done it before with both two and three piston NC calipers.

Beemerphile said:

Not necessary. Remove the two bolts (12mm heads) holding the caliper to the fork leg. Then rock the caliper towards you and then towards the wheel a couple of times to spread the pads a bit. Then you can pull it radially away from the wheel and tilt it towards you at the end to withdraw it. I just did this operation today and have done it before with both two and three piston NC calipers.

Click to expand...

Hi bro

i intend to clean my front caliper (not bleed the whole system) soon, i am using an abs nc 700. The service manual don't mention how to service the caliper, it just teaches how to change the tyre. Before i destroy any abs equipment, can the caliper be serviced (sprayed inside with contact cleaner, wiped down or sanded clean piston) just by removing the 12mm bolts at the fork leg? is the abs module (wheel movement detector) below it safe to unscrew for the purpose of taking the caliper off the rotor?

the previous owner used a very average brake pad that is so dusty and is so bad in the wet, i think its best i clean it up before putting in a pair of vesrah. i know that replacing the pad is actually just 1 pin job, but i want to do a good job with the front brakes.

this is my first abs ride. i have serviced my old calipers easily.

normanlai said:

Hi bro

i intend to clean my front caliper (not bleed the whole system) soon, i am using an abs nc 700. The service manual don't mention how to service the caliper, it just teaches how to change the tyre. Before i destroy any abs equipment, can the caliper be serviced (sprayed inside with contact cleaner, wiped down or sanded clean piston) just by removing the 12mm bolts at the fork leg? is the abs module (wheel movement detector) below it safe to unscrew for the purpose of taking the caliper off the rotor?

the previous owner used a very average brake pad that is so dusty and is so bad in the wet, i think its best i clean it up before putting in a pair of vesrah. i know that replacing the pad is actually just 1 pin job, but i want to do a good job with the front brakes.

this is my first abs ride. i have serviced my old calipers easily.

Click to expand...

There is no difference in servicing the ABS caliper, the differences are that it has two brake lines feeding it because of the combined braking function and it has the sensor attached. You will need to check the sensor gap and restore it properly afterwards, but it can be removed.

Beemerphile said:

There is no difference in servicing the ABS caliper, the differences are that it has two brake lines feeding it because of the combined braking function and it has the sensor attached. You will need to check the sensor gap and restore it properly afterwards, but it can be removed.

Click to expand...

Thanks bro, I will see if any way I can get it done without unscrewing the ABS sensor, it sounds like a delicate item.

update: it looks complicated but actually its very easy, i just removed the 2 12mm bolts and it came off all together. i was just very careful not to stretch the lines or bang the abs sensor. thank you, all for the kind tips.

Brake fluid will absorb moisture from the air. The moisture (water) is corrosive to the internals of the brake mechanisms (cup, spring, snap rings, master cylinder core, relief port). Left long enough the water will rust these internal parts and render your brakes inoperable, requiring a total clean and rebuild. Replacing fluid every two years is easy with some specific tools; Motion Pro and others can supply all sorts of brake bleeding products. It's not difficult but do some research on You Tube or use other resources. Don't go by mileage, go by age.