2012 Clutch Issue

Hello I have a 2012 NC700X and I have been wondering about my clutch. I'm not sure if it is working correctly. It seems that when I let out on it that the pull range is very small. It grabs right at the end of the let out. Is there a way I can check on this to see if I am where I need to be?

Kyonic said:

Hello I have a 2012 NC700X and I have been wondering about my clutch. I'm not sure if it is working correctly. It seems that when I let out on it that the pull range is very small. It grabs right at the end of the let out. Is there a way I can check on this to see if I am where I need to be?

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Sounds like you might need to loosen the clutch cable a bit. The engagement range normally is pretty small, but I wouldn't want mine engaging out at the end of the lever's travel. You should have some play in the clutch lever before the actuator begins to disengage the clutch. Take note of the movement of the short lever above the clutch housing while you move the handlebar lever.

Greg

The amount of play measured at the end of the clutch lever is 10 to 20 mm (3/8 to 13/16"). Is there too much play before the clutch lever takes up pull?

You can generally add more play in the lever than specified in the owners manual. If you add to much it will be felt with not complete release and the motorcycle wanting to move when you pull in the lever stopped and in gear, or when not running pull the clutch in and not being able to roll the motorcycle in gear easily.

Art

Kyonic said:

Is there a way I can check on this to see if I am where I need to be?

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Yes there is. I'm in IN also so ride on over and I can help you verify your free play in the cable and adjust if needed.

I must be the odd man out that likes it out there with only 3/8th's (or maybe 1/4"). I'm so used to pulling with two fingers, if there is any more free play I crush the remaining fingers.

Ok so for an update. I am at about 1000 miles on the bike right now and I have noticed that I am having my clutch issue again. As a release the clutch I get in the friction zone and then as I continue to let it out it is very short. So from the time of friction zone till it grabs it is very small range. I notice when I start from a stop at a light the most. Im not sure if it is me or if it is the bike. It seems that there is really no zone its either a little grab and then all at once it grabs fully. I have tried to hold the clutch at idle to see if the bike moves in gear and it does not. However when I squeez the clutch and drop to first the gear clunks and jolts the bike. Let me know what you guys think.

Let me attempt to help you.

1. Clutch in: Pull in fully the clutch lever, and rev the motor. Does it move the bike forward?
If it does move, then the clutch is too close. Need to adjust lever to freely disengage clutch plates.

2. Clutch out: Release fully the clutch lever (while on the move), and then rev up, does the bike accelerate smoothly?
If it does not, it may mean clutch is not fully engaged. Need to adjust lever or even clutch plates.

3. Half-clutch (biting point). Bite = clutch catches the motor.
Attempt from 1st gear, rev constant to say 2000rpm, and then slowly let out the clutch.
Measure the distance between no bite, to first bite (This is called the clutch free play?)
Call this M1.
Is this distance "comfortable" for your fingers?
If too much, then need to adjust clutch lever.

Now measure from slight bite (initial clutch engagement) to full clutch engagement.
Call this M2.

Is this the zone (M2) where you think is too small?
I would not worry about this zone, even if the lever distance is small.

Total clutch lever in to total clutch lever out (lever distance) = 0 + M1 + M2.
You should only worry about M1 for finger positioning issues.

I am not the mechanical expert.
BTW, the REAL experts are over here:
http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/3023-unable-shift-first-neutral-2nd-3.html

happy said:

Let me attempt to help you.

1. Clutch in: Pull in fully the clutch lever, and rev the motor. Does it move the bike forward?
If it does move, then the clutch is too close. Need to adjust lever to freely disengage clutch plates.

2. Clutch out: Release fully the clutch lever (while on the move), and then rev up, does the bike accelerate smoothly?
If it does not, it may mean clutch is not fully engaged. Need to adjust lever or even clutch plates.

3. Half-clutch (biting point). Bite = clutch catches the motor.
Attempt from 1st gear, rev constant to say 2000rpm, and then slowly let out the clutch.
Measure the distance between no bite, to first bite (This is called the clutch free play?)

Click to expand...

NO free play is the amount of movement with the clutch released before you feel. Any resistance pulling the lever (10-20mm). The lever should (for lack of a better word) rattle in this area

The friction zone of a multi disk clutch is generally pretty small. It sounds like your clutch pull is normal. Again I'm in southeast IN and would be happy to take a look at it for you. PM me if you want to get together

Ok so just an update. I adjusted the clutch a bit. First at the lever I screwed it in all the way and locked her down. I then went to the lower adjustment and gave myself the 3/8ths Is there any harm in having the free play a smaller amount? So now I can tell you that when letting out on the clutch it starts to grab at the last 1/4 of an inch no more than that. If you go to the link below you will see I posted a link to another issue on the bike Clunking hard when shifting from neutral to either 1st or second.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/3105-loud-clunk-shift-neutral.html

Ok so I just did a quick measurement and my friction zone is right at 2/8's of an inch. This is the actual cable movement from start of friction zone to full release which is the begining of the free play.

Subscribed to see if anything comes of this. My friction zone also seems very short. The clutch engages/disengages fully, and is adjusted properly, but the amount of travel in the lever between fully engaged and fully disengaged is much less than my previous bikes.

My NC may have always done it, but I just started to notice about a month ago. Not sure if there's a problem or not.... I need to meet up with Skip or someone in the area and swap bikes to see if I'm making something out of nothing. I'm at ~12,000 miles, no issues otherwise.

trey

Treybrad

Did you find out anything on the above issue?

Where are you measuring the free play, tip of the lever? Some clunking in 1st is normal, so it is difficult to say whether yours has too much or actually is not fully releasing. I hate to even say this, but the engine oil you are using can even affect the abruptness of the clutch action. Also, as stated, the friction zone is pretty small but you should still be able to slip it. As far as whether you can do with less free play, yes you can. As long as there is any free play at all (some slack in the cable), you are not injuring the clutch. The 3/8 inch spec just allows enough leeway to assure that there is some free play under any conditions and temperatures that may come into play.

My clutch has a front wheel problem. Every time I pop the clutch, the front wheel comes off the ground. Too much fun, do not want to fix it!

Old Can Ride said:

My clutch has a front wheel problem. Every time I pop the clutch, the front wheel comes off the ground. Too much fun, do not want to fix it!

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OCR - I think a contributing factor is the aft CG of all that kit you carry on the back of it!!!

Kyonic said:

Treybrad

Did you find out anything on the above issue?

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Nope, but I've decided it's a non-issue. I have actually had another NC in my garage the last week (doing some maintenance work -- valves/tires/etc), and it behaves exactly the same as mine. So, what I thought seemed short, seems to actually be the norm.

Worth mentioning.... I used Rotella syn-blend 10w30 (T5 I think) on my second oil change and ran it for 5k miles. Like Beemer, I hate to bring up any oil discussion, but it's worth noting it is NOT JASO MA certified. So, it could have been a little too slippery (or maybe not) and exacerbated the short engagement 'issue'.

I've since gone back to good 'ol Rotella 5w40 T6 and while I didn't notice a change, it's possible it has helped add some friction (it is JASO MA).

I actually have the Honda synthetic stuff for my next change (dealer sent me a coupon), so I'll be interested to see if that changes anything (or maybe all of this is in my head, lol).

trey

Beemerphile said:

OCR - I think a contributing factor is the aft CG of all that kit you carry on the back of it!!!

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Glad you said it! Just as his Avatar shows!

I am measuring it at the tip. I am using the GN4 10W-30. I have given the clutch just a little more freeplay than normal and it seems to shift alot better. The bike does creep forward when shifting to a gear and does engage the clutch fully when I grab it. I think that after riding my shadow for years I was just used to the long friction zone that it has. I am really getting smooth on the NC so I am just going to shut up and ride!

Stop worrying and start riding...