Need to put to neutral on DCT when stopped?

Hi, is there a need to put to neutral gear on DCT model when stopping momentarily? If no need, is the bike at full clutch-in or half-clutch? Thanks.

There is no need to put to Neutral. Same like in automobiles.

Actually, I would guess it's more like full clutch-in because there is no forward pull at idle like there is in a car with an automatic transmission.

When backing in the garage and such I find less resistance rolling back in neutral, I am pretty challenged to touch feet to the ground, only one heel at a time, btw a little harder to touch one foot flat then the Yamaha FZ1 was. Also any danger of inadvertent throttling due to lack of balance when facing a wall is avoided

no need but don't blip your throttle

Rtreat49 said:

When backing in the garage and such I find less resistance rolling back in neutral, I am pretty challenged to touch feet to the ground, only one heel at a time, btw a little harder to touch one foot flat then the Yamaha FZ1 was. Also any danger of inadvertent throttling due to lack of balance when facing a wall is avoided

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Yeah, I learned on the first day to put it in neutral when maneuvering the bike around. Got a good scratch on the fairing to remind me.

Only need to put the bike in neutral at a stop if you live in the UK, from what I've learned here on the forum.

Greg

Whether you ride a DCT or manual transmission bike, you should always keep your bike in gear for safety reasons. you never know when you may need to make a sudden maneuver. And always leave a gap between the car you and the car in front of you. Always make sure you have an "OUT" in case of an emergency.

belinda k said:

Whether you ride a DCT or manual transmission bike, you should always keep your bike in gear for safety reasons. you never know when you may need to make a sudden maneuver. And always leave a gap between the car you and the car in front of you. Always make sure you have an "OUT" in case of an emergency.

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You would fail your car (manual) driving test in the UK leaving your car in gear. We have two tests for cars, one for manual and one for autos only. If you pass a test in a car with manual transmission you can also drive an auto vehicle. But if you take a test in an auto you can only drive an auto. On a personal level ( and it is only my personal opinion) I do not agree with leaving a manual transmission vehicle in gear at a junction or traffic light and is considered bad practice in the UK.
This subject has been discussed before on the forum in another thread. I think the thinking behind this in the USA is because most people drive auto cars and so most driving/riding practice have evolved from that. Only a guess on my part though.

it doesn't do the clutch springs any good leaving it in gear but for the DCT??

So far, there's no mention in the manual of the need to put in neutral when stopping. From the responses, it seems so. I supposed both clutches are disengaged when the engine is idling but at the slightest throttle, the 1st clutch will engage. From ECM point, this can simply be done since it's just a matter of sending a signal to the clutch solenoid. Thanks for all the feedback

ray said:

So far, there's no mention in the manual of the need to put in neutral when stopping. From the responses, it seems so. I supposed both clutches are disengaged when the engine is idling but at the slightest throttle, the 1st clutch will engage. From ECM point, this can simply be done since it's just a matter of sending a signal to the clutch solenoid. Thanks for all the feedback

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The DCT is in first gear when you come to a stop. It will not idle forward like a car in gear and in fact will roll freely forward or backward...until you give it some throttle.

Put the DCT on the center stand, switch to drive and watch the rear tire spin up to about 9 MPH or so. It applies a little power, but not enough to move you forward when stopped. I'd say it's closer to feathering the clutch.

You sure that's not just wet-clutch drag from the viscous oil?

Cagedodger said:

Put the DCT on the center stand, switch to drive and watch the rear tire spin up to about 9 MPH or so. It applies a little power, but not enough to move you forward when stopped. I'd say it's closer to feathering the clutch.

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It would be interesting to try that with the manual version with the clutch disengaged to see if the same thing happens.

Greg

670cc said:

It would be interesting to try that with the manual version with the clutch disengaged to see if the same thing happens.

Greg

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How do you rev the engine without the bike moving forward?

Mycool said:

How do you rev the engine without the bike moving forward?

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Center stand.

Mycool said:

How do you rev the engine without the bike moving forward?

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Can't you use the switch to put in in Neutral (as oppose to a Drive or Spost...)?

Just like when you initially start it up.

icing777 said:

Can't you use the switch to put in in Neutral (as oppose to a Drive or Spost...)?

Just like when you initially start it up.

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Yes you can, but the bike must be stopped first. In other words the rear wheel must not be turning before switching back into neutral.

670cc said:

It would be interesting to try that with the manual version with the clutch disengaged to see if the same thing happens.

Greg

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It does, and it's been the same as every bike I've ever owned. There's always some drag through the clutch. In neutral with no revs, it's sometimes a slow turn, other times nothing. Rev it up a bit and it can get spinning quite fast