Sprocket change?

Has anyone changed the counter shaft sprocket up 1 tooth or rear sprocket 2 or 3 teeth smaller to lower the cruise rpm? If so what mileage gains did you see? My guess is this bike riden conservatively could reach 80+ MPG which is great for this size bike!!

Excuse me... "to lower the cruise rpm"????? Even more???? OMG

i guarantee you honda has worked very hard on this model to give optimal power, fuel mileage and engine reliabilty with the stock gearing.

Be aware that changing the sprockets on the NC700X will alter the accuracy of the speedometer.

I think riding discipline is the best way to achieve the best fuel mileage. 80 mpg has already been done and so has 90 mpg. That was with stock sprockets too.
When I get in my fuel mileage mode, which is in the warmer months, I get close to 80 mpg.
There are a few guys on this board that are very impressive with there ability to get great mileage.
Want to see what there getting?

670cc
NancyX (Honda NC700X) | Fuelly

N97972

N97972 (Honda NC700X) | Fuelly




Dave can get some impressive numbers also.

dduelin said:

I don not have the inclination to document MPG on Fuelly but I have been keeping track of receipts as far to get a feel for real-world tank range. From the beginning I was getting mid-60 MPG in the USA using 89 Octane 10% ethanol. I have passed 1,400 miles and now I am using regular grade 87 octane E10. My riding style would be "Spirited". I ride for pleasure on open rural roads with posted speeds of 45 to 60 mph for the most part. Now I am getting low to mid 70 MPG. Today I picked a road I could ride a constant 50 mph with no stops for about 30 miles. I achieved 90.0375 US miles per gallon.

Click to expand...

I have changed sprockets on dozens of bikes of all brands and most get better mileage after the change, based on my 39 years of riding experience i would bet this bike would see better mileage with taller gearing. This is a low rpm torgue engine....lower rpm means better mileage. Lower speeds mean better mileage based on lower rpm and wind drag....i have done lots of experiments with this and detailed mileage records over a period of years and thousands of miles. Taller gearing works!!!

I guess no one has done this......yet!

I asked about a diffrent sprocket at the dealer and they said Honda sent out a service bulletin saying "NOT" to change the gearing. I really don't see what it would hurt on the manuel model except the the speedometer.

I'm going the opposite way by going up 1 or 2 in the rear so i can get a little punch off the line and out of corners. This bike will always be good on fuel unless ya flog the thing to death. I'm a big fella so this change will make it a little easier on the engine......

I must have missed that bulletin, only one i have seen is to not change rear spring preload. on a x model should not hurt anything, as long as you do not lug it to much.. im sure speedo healer will come out with a unit to adjust the input to the speedo. up one tooth on the front make sure it clears everything in the front cover, may need a longer chain?? down more than two could put chain in contact with swing arm at pivot, on top and bottom and rub when topped out or completely compressed. dale

HONDABIKEPRO said:

only one i have seen is to not change rear spring preload. on a x model should not hurt anything, as long as you do not lug it to much

Click to expand...

Dale, could you elaborate, please? I'm interested in this one as I carry passenger and luggage very often...

One tooth up and the counter shaft sprocket will surely fix the 6th gear low speed lugging vibration

duk2n said:

Dale, could you elaborate, please? I'm interested in this one as I carry passenger and luggage very often...

Click to expand...

the rear shock has a threaded adjuster on top of the spring, setting spring preload. this is always set by the factory when new for the loads the bike is rated at. if you are in the normal load range rider, passenger, saddlebags you should be ok with the factory setting. on most bikes you can add a little more preload to the spring, to help ride height and bottoming but honda has said on this bike the adjuster is only to set the spring preload from the factory and not to use it to preload the spring anymore.. not sure why they are saying this.. possible spring could coil bind and damage shock or spring??? most bikes you change spring preload by 3 to 4 mm. any more than that you need a different spring that is stiffer. the more preload you put into the spring to support the load the ride may get stiffer. you can support a bigger load and get a good ride with a stiffer spring with less preload. if you are all loaded up pass, bags, acc, and the bike is bottoming you will have to upgrade to a ohlins. they will build that shock to work correctly for you with fully adjustable . one thing to remember if you go up in rear spring rates you should always go up in front to balance the bike. if you don't without all the added load on the rear pas, bags. acc. the steering geometry will be off. and the front end will be to soft and dive more under hard brakeing. dale

showkey said:

One tooth up and the counter shaft sprocket will surely fix the 6th gear low speed lugging vibration

Click to expand...

Can't tell if you are being serious one way or the other with the "roll eyes" smiley additions, but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt on the lugging at 3,000 rpm in 6th gear.

Since my NC feels awesome at 2,600-2,800 rpm in 6th, and it is not lugging, I would welcome a lowering of rpm from 3k at highway speed. Conversely, I would be every bit as happy at 3,300 rpm in 6th, if I was still only doing 100-110 ish kph.

L.B.S. said:

Can't tell if you are being serious one way or the other with the "roll eyes" smiley additions, but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt on the lugging at 3,000 rpm in 6th gear.

Since my NC feels awesome at 2,600-2,800 rpm in 6th, and it is not lugging, I would welcome a lowering of rpm from 3k at highway speed. Conversely, I would be every bit as happy at 3,300 rpm in 6th, if I was still only doing 100-110 ish kph.

Click to expand...

Plus ya engine sits more in the fat part of the torque making it a bit more responsive to throttle application......

Drifter said:

I have changed sprockets on dozens of bikes of all brands and most get better mileage after the change, based on my 39 years of riding experience i would bet this bike would see better mileage with taller gearing. This is a low rpm torgue engine....lower rpm means better mileage. Lower speeds mean better mileage based on lower rpm and wind drag....i have done lots of experiments with this and detailed mileage records over a period of years and thousands of miles. Taller gearing works!!!

I guess no one has done this......yet!

Click to expand...

taller gearing WILL get you better gas mileage, but for every action there's a reaction. you'll give up some acceleration. to each his own, but this bike already lacks punch.

HONDABIKEPRO said:

honda has said on this bike the adjuster is only to set the spring preload from the factory and not to use it to preload the spring anymore.. not sure why they are saying this.. possible spring could coil bind and damage shock or spring???

Click to expand...

Very very strange, it deserves further investigation. Thanks!

that was said to me about the 2011 triumph speed triple too. Didn't stop me from winding 5 extra threads on the rear preload to suit my weight.

searsboy said:

taller gearing WILL get you better gas mileage, but for every action there's a reaction. you'll give up some acceleration. to each his own, but this bike already lacks punch.

Click to expand...

Yep, with the rpm down lower than normal, more throttle will have to be used to accelerate and with lazier gearing it will take longer to get in the powerband. Basically lowering the gearing (go up in the rear/down the front) produces more seat of the pants torque, better acceleration, but reduces top speed. Going up the front, down the rear increases top speed but be warned, this bike doesnt have alot of top end grunt so if you want to make it more lazy, you may get in 6th at say 4800 and it may not go anymore because it doesnt have the grunt. Mine wont go more than 5500 in 6th with only 48hp plus with my fat ass it actually needs more gearing lol!!!!!

This bike is not about speed and quick starts....plenty of other bikes out there for that.
Riding around at a decent speed and enjoying the ride with great mileage is what this was designed for, no matter the brand of bike they all can be improved to fit any given riders wants or needs.....that is why the aftermarker is so huge. Some folks like lower cruise rpm and the best mileage as possible....gearing changes do that. If you dont like it dont do it....pretty simple really.

duk2n said:

Very very strange, it deserves further investigation. Thanks!

Click to expand...

What is really deserves is replacement!