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First Valve Check - changes to service manual procedure

dduelin

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I completed my first valve clearance check tonight after dinner. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete, I am slow and took my time. All 8 valves were in spec and I recorded the clearances as a baseline for the second check at 16,000 miles. Depending on how that one goes I'll stick to the 8,000 mile recommendation or stretch it to a somewhat longer period.

There are a couple things I did that deviated from the Honda Service Manual procedure 3-10 that others may find helpful. This procedure 3-10 first tells me to remove the radiator with procedure 8-9. Doing that would require draining much of the coolant and this isn't required until 2 years or 24,000 miles (38,400 km). I have 7900 miles on my bike and the coolant is just fine.

First deviation from the service manual procedure to check valves..... I ignored removal of the radiator 8-9 and moved to step two which is to remove the cylinder head cover (valve cover) with procedure 10-6. Following 10-6 is basically removing the radiator fasteners, cooling fan wires, and the #1 spark plug wire in order to drop the radiator down and away to gain access to the valve cover without having to actually remove the radiator. I did this but still did not have enough room to remove the valve cover. At this point I improvised with the second deviation form the manual and removed the upper radiator hose on the right side as it was holding the radiator close to the valve cover. I released the hose clamp on the radiator inlet and tried to wriggle the hose loose but the hose was stuck tight and there is no room for fingers to grasp the hose. To start it loose I took a large screwdriver and generously wrapped the flat blade with masking tape to pad it. Carefully insert between the end of the hose and the radiator. Go very carefully as to not scratch or damage either the hose or the radiator. It's not really prying - twist the screwdriver so the flat of the blade pushes against the end of the hose just to start it loose off the inlet. The hose will start to move then it can be removed by hand. When the hose comes off this releases about a half cup of coolant so be ready with a catch pan or a thick towel. I then used a bungee cord over the right hand turn signal to support the radiator on that side - the left side is held up by the lower radiator hose. I formed a plug from a paper towel to stop up the radiator from releasing more coolant when I had to pull it down and out to the right side a bit to make enough room to wiggle the valve cover off and away. Now I had plenty of room to check the clearances. After replacing everything I topped off the radiator with fresh Honda premix coolant I had but if you catch what drains out in a clean container you could just put that back in to finish the job.
 
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We use a cotter pin tool from snap on to take off hoses, you can get one from any tool supply house, the rad is very thin and will be hurt if your not very very carefull also spray a litle silicone on inside of the hose, to help release the hose, next to the cotter pin tool.
 
Anyone willing to post the directions to do this pretty please.

I can probably manage without them, but it would be nice to see the recommended adjustment order.
 
Thought I would add to Dave's thread, instead of having a hundred valve check threads.
I checked/adjusted mine today at 8,340 miles on the clock. It wasn't bad at all! Thank you Honda for making it an easy job!
Mine were in spec, all but one exhaust valve was getting on the tight side. I went ahead and set them dead nuts so I would have another easy 8,000 miles.
I also left my radiator on, but drained most of it since I had more antifreeze with me.
When I started putting it back together, I noticed some aluminum particles in the coolant. (More than I thought should be there.)
I'm betting they came from the water pump and will keep a close eye on that.
 
May I ask, if one does not adjust the valves at the recommended milestone, what are the consequences?

It is somewhere along a continuum between nothing and the end of the world as we know it. If it turns out that the valves you did not inspect were within range, then there is no impact. If things settled until the clearance became zero or negative, then you could warp a valve. If Murphy really wanted to lay the grief on you, the head could break off the warped valve and it could bin the entire motor.

As Clint Eastwood would say...

[video=youtube;A732Cuuo2tI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A732Cuuo2tI[/video]
 
It is somewhere along a continuum between nothing and the end of the world as we know it. If it turns out that the valves you did not inspect were within range, then there is no impact. If things settled until the clearance became zero or negative, then you could warp a valve. If Murphy really wanted to lay the grief on you, the head could break off the warped valve and it could bin the entire motor.

As Clint Eastwood would say...

[video=youtube;A732Cuuo2tI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A732Cuuo2tI[/video]

I'm not one too mess with Lady Luck or Harry Callahan. But I would prefer a 6" barrel.
 
It is somewhere along a continuum between nothing and the end of the world as we know it. If it turns out that the valves you did not inspect were within range, then there is no impact. If things settled until the clearance became zero or negative, then you could warp a valve. If Murphy really wanted to lay the grief on you, the head could break off the warped valve and it could bin the entire motor.

As Clint Eastwood would say...

[video=youtube;A732Cuuo2tI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A732Cuuo2tI[/video]

Then I have a legit reason to get the GS....
:p

Thanks for the tip.
 
Good to know that there may be some alum chips & or chunks in the radiator.

I am thinking Ill drain the coolant, and then filter it through the wife's pretty lace panties, or if she wearing em, i guess ill have to find a coffee filter instead.

either way i am filtering that coolant before it's going back in.
 
I guess when she see's that green stain ill be living in the dog house for at least a few days, that means more riding time

That's Ok,

I have fully insulated high bay w/roll up insulated doors, 1600sq ft, dog house/shop, and another 1500 sqft front open High bay shop, ill be comfy

You might be a redneck if your shop is bigger than your house, it is 3100sq ft combined shop area. House is only 2000sq ft, Crap!

I have way too many toys
 
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