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African Twin Next Year?

Ruggybuggy

Ruggybuggy

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Africa Twin Next Year?

For those that have made the switch to the Africa Twin, has it been a good experience? Any negatives compared to the NC? I have a '12 NC750 and I'm in the market for a new bike next year. I'm either going back to the NC or going with Africa Twin DCT.

Africa Twin
Honda-CRF1000L-Africa-Twin-Standard-studio-9-590x393.jpg




Africa Twin Enduro Concept Bike
honda-africa-twin-enduro-sports-concept-10.jpg



Let's muddy the waters a little further.

NC750X DCT. I love the colour scheme.
nc750x_13094_r151c_u____candy_red_front.png


Honda VFR1200 DCT but fairly expensive but a gorgeous bike.
vfr1200x_13092_r151c_u____candy_red_front.png
 
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You set "in" the Africa Twin not on top of it. The stock seat is comfortable.

The DCT transmission is great and the extra engine power is very usable on the Africa Twin.
I would never go back to a standard transmission after owning a DCT transmission motorcycle......

For a true adventure bike, the tire wear is great on the Africa twin. 10,000 miles on the stock 90% street and 10% dirt stock rear tires, is not uncommon for the Africa Twin. Being a 90/10 tire does not do so well in the grass, I will be changing to a set 50/50 tires soon at 10,000 miles. Tubeless tires are a lot easier to just plug when on the street. However, using tube type tires lets you lower the air pressure all the way down to as low as 15 PSI when riding in the dirt without the tire losing the bead. Once you acquire the proper tools, tube type tires are not that bad to fix flats or change tires. It just takes a few times changing or fixing the tubes, and you will acquire the expericance required.

Being able to turn your traction control and ABS on and off is a great feature. This makes riding in the dirt easier.

The Africa Twin uses 525 chain leaks. With a chain oiler, this will let you ride 20,000 miles per set of chain and sprockets. I got about 12,000 miles on the NC. Also, the swing arm is aluminum on the Africa Twin. The swing arm grummits allow you to run the chain oiler line inside the swing arm, so you will never damage to oiler line.

The handlebars on the Africa Twin are 1 1/8 inch, not the 7/8 inch as on the NC. The handle bars are wider. This gives you greater control while in the dirt. However, the 7/8 handlebars are more comfortable when on the street.

As you can see, there are trade offs either way. My advise is that if you know you are going to ride 25% dirt and 75% street, then go with the Africa Twin DTC. However, if you plan to ride around 10% dirt and 90% street stay with the NC DCT....
 
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Ruggybuggy said:
Nice bike. Looks like a big dirt bike. I've had very good luck with my Honda products so I'll probably stay with them.
Click to expand...

It's a true rally ADV, projected to come in at 400 pounds or so. And Yamaha has a great rep for reliability -- I'd say equal to Honda. It may not be the type of machine you are looking for but chances are it's going to be a very popular ADV due to its performance and weight and flexibility.

...There are so many choices out there it seems to me to make better sense not to be a brand fanboy, but rather be looking for any products that tick the right boxes for intended use and evaluate them all. But that's just me. I have a Yammie and a Honda and would be pleased with a lot of other brands as well. Suzuki, KTM, BMW, whatever ; }
 
DCT is definitely a great feature for many. Honda's got a winner in that.
 
The AT is a good bike. If I could have sorted out the suspension on my NC I would not even have considered the move. However I moved over primarily for comfort on rough roads. The bonus was plush suspension and of course a more powerful and very user friendly motor. Also my Base model AT is only about 20lbs heavier than my NC was. I am kind of sorry that I didn't wait for the DCT model as I am not getting any younger and my clutch hand hurts a lot of late. Ergonomics and seat are good for me at 5'8".

There have been issues in the first model year. Both sets of switches can be troublesome for some folks. I have been lucky so far. If ridden briskly over rough roads or offroad the shock is not up to the job for some folks. I will shortly have to get mine rebuilt. Some are encountering spoke corrosion. Honda will shortly assess mine for this issue. The body panels are a proper pain to remove and this should not be the case with an Adventure bike especially if one needs urgent access to the air filters out on a trail.

I like my AT and expect to have it for some considerable time. I am not sure if I will get another and I will be watching the competition closely. However as Greenboy says, DCT is a good product and none of the other manufacturers have matched it to date. I suspect that the issues mentioned above will be dealt with in subsequent model years.
 
Thanks for the replies. For Old Can Rider and Griff, how do you find the extra weight of the AT compared to the NC? What I really like about my NC is the low centre of gravity. I can turn the bike in tight circle and slow speed maneuvering is great. I use to have a Vstrom and always hated the top heavy feeling of the bike. I don't want to have the same experience with the AT. My ideal bike would have the low speed handling of the NC, the suspension of the AT with a touch more power than the NC.
 
I'm either going back to the NC or going with Africain Twin DCT.
Click to expand...

The premise is wrong. There cannot be any fair comparisons
to be made in this decision. Two different classes of toys.
If you have the $$ to afford the CRF1000L with DCT, how can you choose
the NCxxx?

Of course, if you do, I for one would love to hear the reasoning.
:confused:
 
DCTFAN said:
The premise is wrong. There cannot be any fair comparisons
to be made in this decision. Two different classes of toys.
If you have the $$ to afford the CRF1000L with DCT, how can you choose
the NCxxx?

Of course, if you do, I for one would love to hear the reasoning.
:confused:
Click to expand...

The NC750x has been a very good bike for me for the last five years. I normally only keep a bike for a couple of years than move on. From my inexperience view of the AT I see it as a more powerful adventure touring bike that is more off road capable than the NC. My other bike is a KLX351 that I use for gravel and off road riding. If I were to buy the AT it's purpose would be to use it for touring and still have the capability to venture off road. During my non touring time the bike would be used as a commuter.

More money and more power do not always equate to a better bike.
 
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Others have said it as have I. If you do not need or will use the off road features of the AT then it's off road biased wheels, tires, and suspension detract from touring and street use. Why buy a screwdriver to hammer nails unless you just want the screwdriver and can accept it's compromises hammering nails.
 
Ruggybuggy said:
The NC750x has been a very good bike for me for the last five years. I normally only keep a bike for a couple of years than move on. From my inexperience view of the AT I see it as a more powerful adventure touring bike that is more off road capable than the NC. My other bike is a KLX351 that I use for gravel and off road riding. If I were to buy the AT it's purpose would be to use it for touring and still have the capability to venture off road. During my non touring time the bike would be used as a commuter.

More money and more power do not always equate to a better bike.
Click to expand...


I agree with OCR that the weight difference is not a problem and especially with the Base model which is only 20lbs heavier. I have no more of an issue manhandling the AT as I did with my NC. With the suspension properly adjusted and the right tyres, the AT is almost as nimble on tight twisty roads as the NC was for me. However if I were still commuting I would most definitely prefer the NC for that purpose. I used to have to split lanes and twist in and out of tight spaces in heavy traffic. A tall bike with wide handlebars is not suitable for that and the NC is much better. Better than both would have been my much loved FJS600 scooter.
 
dduelin said:
Others have said it as have I. If you do not need or will use the off road features of the AT then it's off road biased wheels, tires, and suspension detract from touring and street use. Why buy a screwdriver to hammer nails unless you just want the screwdriver and can accept it's compromises hammering nails.
Click to expand...

If this is true then there are alot of screwdrivers being used as hammers. Most people that buy adventure touring bikes never leave the pavement. My adventure bike history has been a KLR, two Vstroms and a NC. The reason I chose those bikes was for the more upright riding style, comfortable suspension, taller in the saddle and the torquey motors. I do like to ride gravel but it's only about 5% of my riding time.
 
Ruggybuggy said:
If this is true then there are alot of screwdrivers being used as hammers. Most people that buy adventure touring bikes never leave the pavement. My adventure bike history has been a KLR, two Vstroms and a NC. The reason I chose those bikes was for the more upright riding style, comfortable suspension, taller in the saddle and the torquey motors. I do like to ride gravel but it's only about 5% of my riding time.
Click to expand...
You make my point. None of the bikes mentioned have the off road biased suspension of the AT and it's wheel and tire sizes...well the KLR does have a 21" front but somehow I can't imagine a KLR driver forking over AT dough. The hammer/screwdriver metaphor is that you can tour on 21/18s and 9" of travel but at some disadvantage to designs biased to street use. The Adv touring bikes made popular as touring bikes in the last few years mostly run 19/17's with a plethora of tire choices. I'm with you on the ergos of Adv touring bikes.

Hey, I want an AT too but analytically it makes no sense given my past and future use of these toys. That is just me, you might have no use for my opinion, no worries.
 
My comments about the Yamaha T7 are predicated on doing a fair amount of off-pavement and off-road riding as well as longer haul pavement. If Yamaha releases it in the projected weight range of 400 pounds it's going to be a real killer for that. Seeing a mega-manufacturer again putting some focus on below 1K displacement twins that are designed for real adventure riding is a breath of fresh air IMO. It's definitely more than a styling exercise!
 
greenboy said:
My comments about the Yamaha T7 are predicated on doing a fair amount of off-pavement and off-road riding as well as longer haul pavement. If Yamaha releases it in the projected weight range of 400 pounds it's going to be a real killer for that. Seeing a mega-manufacturer again putting some focus on below 1K displacement twins that are designed for real adventure riding is a breath of fresh air IMO. It's definitely more than a styling exercise!
Click to expand...

I glanced at the T7 photos and saw that my wallet was safe. It has an extreme dirt bias and is still too big, IMHO. I don't seen long mileage days on that seat, and I'm guessing only long inseams need apply.

A half sized baby AT is what I'd want.
 
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670cc said:
I glanced at the T7 photos and saw that my wallet was safe. It has an extreme dirt bias and is still too big, IMHO. I don't seen long mileage days on that seat, and I'm guessing only long inseams need apply.
Click to expand...

yeah, gotta see measurements. but "extreme dirt bias" to me means that's it's competent and better at that, but doesn't preclude being good on fast pavement, really. but then, i'm one of those guys who'd ride pavement for hours just to go to places where it's great to be off pavement and maybe off-road too ; }

A half sized baby AT is what I'd want.
Click to expand...

Rally Raid? Seems like a pretty good set of compromises as long as one doesn't expect to be blasting at 85mph on the pavement.
 
dduelin said:
You make my point. None of the bikes mentioned have the off road biased suspension of the AT and it's wheel and tire sizes...well the KLR does have a 21" front but somehow I can't imagine a KLR driver forking over AT dough. The hammer/screwdriver metaphor is that you can tour on 21/18s and 9" of travel but at some disadvantage to designs biased to street use. The Adv touring bikes made popular as touring bikes in the last few years mostly run 19/17's with a plethora of tire choices. I'm with you on the ergos of Adv touring bikes.

Hey, I want an AT too but analytically it makes no sense given my past and future use of these toys. That is just me, you might have no use for my opinion, no worries.
Click to expand...

Well I guess it's time for a test ride. Dave, am I mistaken but do you have a Tenere?
 
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